'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of IndiaEden, Emily
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'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India
Eden, Emily
Eden, Emily, 1797-1869 -- Correspondence; India -- Description and travel
This is the memorable place where Lord William and Runjeet had their
meeting, 'where those sons of glory, those two lights of men, met in the
vale of Roopur. You lost the view of earthly glory. Men might say, till
then true pomp was single, but now was married to itself,' &c. What is
that quoted from? You don't know--you know nothing. But as touching this
scene of glory, it is a large plain--in short, a slice of India--with a
ruinous fort on one side and a long narrow bazaar of mud huts on
another, the Sutlej running peacefully along about a mile from our
encampment. We have the same tents Lord W. had, at least facsimiles of
them; therefore we are quite up to the splendid meeting. Perhaps our
tents are a shade handsomer, being a very deep chocolate colour owing to
the rain of yesterday. They were of course let down into the mud, and
have acquired that rich brown hue. Moreover, it occurred to me that my
feet were very cold to-day, and at last I discovered that the wet oozed
out of the setringees (an Indian excuse for a floorcloth) at every step,
and I had them taken up, and the tent is littered profusely and
handsomely with clean straw, giving the whole the air and odour of a
rickety hackney coach. G. observes every day, as he did last year,
'Well! I wish Sir Charles Metcalfe could see us, and explain why this is
a luxurious method of travelling.' The sufferings of the cattle, as
usual, make the morning's march hateful. We have lost seven camels and
two bullocks in seven days, and generally come in for a view of their
dying agonies.
Wednesday, Nov. 14.
I cannot put any names to these places, but we are three marches from
Loodheeana. I had such a pretty present this morning, at least rather
pretty. It is a baby elephant, nine months old, caught at Saharunpore by
the jemadar of the mahouts, and he has been educating it for me, and
offered it by means of Captain D., his master. W. and I have been
looking about for some time for a gigantic goat for Chance to ride on
great occasions, but a youthful elephant is much more correct, and is
the sort of thing Runjeet's dogs will expect. It just comes up to my
elbow, seems to have Chance's own little bad temper and his love of
eating, and is altogether rather like him. I had no idea such little
elephants were valuable, but it appears that they are, as the baboo told
me, 'Quite a fancy article; great rajahs like them for little rajahs to
ride on.' The mahout would not take any money, so I had it valued and it
is worth about forty pounds, and I got Mr. C. to present him with a pair
of shawls and a pair of bracelets to that amount, accompanied by a neat
Persian speech, which C. thought was worth about an equal sum. The blue
shawls would have suited my own complaint exactly. The investiture took
place in my tent, and the excellent mahout was much affected, Mr. C.
says by his speech, _I_ think by the blueness of the shawls, and the man
probably regretted his little elephant.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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