'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of IndiaEden, Emily
History
'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India
Eden, Emily
Eden, Emily, 1797-1869 -- Correspondence; India -- Description and travel
G. gave St. Cloup his ring, and his grin and jump would have delighted
Mathews, though perhaps a little overdone for the stage. Runjeet came
over early and went with G. to see the artillery, rather against his
lordship's inclinations, for he had been to look in the morning and
thought it a very poor show. However, Runjeet was delighted, and kept
them there for two hours. We had prepared our fête at the end of the
street--a large compound enclosed on three sides with a large tent for
us, and a small one for Runjeet filling up the fourth side, guards all
round to prevent anybody who had not an invitation from going in. The
large tent opened into a long _shemiana_--I hardly know how to explain
that, but it is, in fact, a tent without sides, merely a roof supported
by pillars; this looked out into the compound, which was laid out like a
flower garden, only instead of flowers there were little lamps laid out,
as thickly as they could be placed, in the shape of flower borders. On
the ground alone, P. said, there were 42,000 lamps, and the garden was
railed in by an _espalier_ of lamps. It was really very pretty and odd.
G. and Runjeet had their great chairs in the centre, with B. on the
other side of G., F. next to B., then Sir G. R. and a long row of
ladies. I sat by the side of Runjeet, and next to me Kurruck Singh, his
son, and then another long row of his sirdars.
The instant Runjeet sat down, three or four of his attendants came and
knelt down before him--one, the Fakeer Uzeez-ood-deen, who is his
interpreter and adviser and the comfort of his life. We all ought to
have Uzeez-ood-deens of our own, if we wish to be really comfortable.
The others arranged his gold bottle and glass, and plates of fruit, and
he began drinking that horrible spirit, which he pours down like water.
He insisted on my just touching it, as I had not been at his party on
Saturday, and one drop actually burnt the outside of my lips. I could
not possibly swallow it. Those two little brats, in new dresses, were
crawling about the floor, and he poured some of this fire down their
throats. We had two bands to play; and when the fireworks were over, a
large collection of nautch-girls came in front of Runjeet, and danced
and sang apparently much to his satisfaction. They were a very ugly set
from Loodheeana. I could not help thinking how eastern we had become,
everybody declaring it was one of the best-managed and pleasantest
parties they had seen. All these satraps in a row, and those screaming
girls and crowds of long-bearded attendants, and the old tyrant drinking
in the middle--but still we all said: 'What a charming party!' just as
we should have said formerly at Lady C.'s or Lady J.'s. I could not talk
with any great ease, being on the blind side of Runjeet, who converses
chiefly with his one eye and a few signs which his fakeer makes up into
a long speech; and Kurruck Singh was apparently an idiot. Luckily,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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