'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of IndiaEden, Emily
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'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India
Eden, Emily
Eden, Emily, 1797-1869 -- Correspondence; India -- Description and travel
yourself, somewhere near Connaught Place, and then we will embrace and
drive on, and go hand-in-hand in to dinner, and sit next to each other.
If I have anything to say (which is very doubtful, for I have grown
rather like Hindû Rao), I will mention it to Giles, who will repeat it
to Gooby, who will tell you, and you will wink your eye and stroke your
hair, and in about ten minutes you will give me an answer through the
same channels. Now you understand.
To return to this show. We drove for two miles and a half through a lane
of Runjeet's 'goocherras,' or bodyguard. The sun was up and shining on
them, and I suppose there was not one who would not have made the
fortune of a painter. One troop was dressed entirely in yellow satin,
with gold scarfs and shawls; but the other half were in that cloth of
gold which is called kincob--the _fond_ being gold and the pattern
scarlet, or purple, or yellow; their arms were all gold--many of them
had collars of precious stones; their shields and lances were all
studded with gold. They have long beards down to their waists, and most
of them had a silver or gold tissue drapery, which they bring over their
heads and pass round their beards to keep them from the dust. In the
distance there was a long line of troops extending four miles and a
half, and which after much deliberation I settled was a white wall with
a red coping. I thought it could not possibly be alive; but it was--with
30,000 men. G. says old Runjeet was very much pleased with his own
display. Shere Singh dined with us again; but otherwise it was a day of
rest.
Thursday we began poking about to find shawls and agate curiosities,
which are supposed to abound at Umritzir; but our native servants are
afraid of going into the bazaars: they say the Sikhs laugh at them and
their dress. My man told me 'they are a very _proudly_ people, me not
much like; they say, "What this?" and "What that?" I say, "It Mussulmun
dress--if you not like, don't touch!" Then they say, "No city like our
Umritzir!" I say, "I say nothing against your Umritzir; but then you
never see anything else. If you come to _Calcut_, I show you beautiful
things--ships that go by smoke, and fine houses." However, they are so
proudly that now I pretend I no understand their Punjâbee, but I know
what they mean.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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