'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of IndiaEden, Emily
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'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India
Eden, Emily
Eden, Emily, 1797-1869 -- Correspondence; India -- Description and travel
Shalimar is the garden where Dr. D. and W. lived when they suffered so
much from heat last year. We are encamped close by it. I believe it is
the real Shalimar where Lalla Rookh recognised Feramorz, but we do not
happen to have a 'Lalla Rookh' at hand. Shere Singh came to my tent to
sit for his picture--such a gorgeous figure! all over diamonds and
emeralds; and as it was a first private visit, he brought a bag of
rupees, which he waved round and threw on the ground, and of which it is
indelicate to take the least notice. It is still more indelicate taking
them at all, I think, but it cannot be helped. He made a very good
picture. He was extremely curious about the arrangement of our tents,
and poked about, looking into every book and box; and as he went away,
he made A. and W. take him round to F.'s tent to look at everything
there. I believe nothing can equal the shock it is to the Sikhs in
general to see F. and me going about in this way. They come in crowds to
ask for an explanation from the native servants. It is unpleasant being
considered so disreputable; but 'conscious worth, patient merit,' and
all that sort of thing, serve to keep us up, to say nothing of not
understanding what they say. F. and I went to sketch in the gardens in
the afternoon. They are a thick grove of orange and limes, so that they
are cool at all times. G. settled that he would go too and take a quiet
walk and look about him, with only an aide-de-camp. Deluded creature!
Inexperienced traveller! The instant he got on his elephant, bang went a
gun. Shere Singh and Lehna Singh with their trains appeared, a troop of
Sikhs wheeled up and began playing 'God save the Queen,' with every
other bar left out, which makes rather a pretty air. Mr. C. was sent for
to interpret. His lordship went on to the gardens, where we saw him
debark, and a train of devoted gardeners met him with baskets of fruit.
We made him a sign not to come and interrupt our sketching, but from the
opposite walk there debouched Kurruck Singh, and Ajeet Singh, and the
old fakeer, sent by Runjeet to see that all was right. The brothers
Kurruck and Shere don't speak, and G. said it was horrible to see the
agitation with which Shere Singh clutched hold of him, and Kurruck laid
hold of the other hand, and they handed him along towards us,
oversetting our tonjauns, and utterly discomposing our perspective. G.
bears a real ceremony beautifully when he has made up his mind to it,
and indeed rather likes it; but when he has made up his mind the other
way, and wishes to see any curious sight quietly, he becomes frantic
with bore if he is interrupted.
Lahore, Friday, Dec. 21.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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