'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of IndiaEden, Emily
History
'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India
Eden, Emily
Eden, Emily, 1797-1869 -- Correspondence; India -- Description and travel
We marched this morning, that is, we rode five miles to this wicked
little Gugga, which is not forty yards wide, and yet gives us all this
trouble. Captain S. overtook us half-way, and said that he had been
detained by finding Wright and Jones at the last camp left without any
conveyance. Their elephant, by some mistake, had been sent on to the
ghaut, and all the usual spare resources had been sent away last night,
so he found them _walking_. He sent them his elephant as soon as he
could overtake it, but they had walked two miles, much to the wonder of
the natives.
I never saw such a scene as the ghaut--such a conglomeration of carts,
sepoys, bullocks, trunks, &c., and 600 camels, who would not go any
way. About 200 had been coaxed over. F. and I went down there after
luncheon, and sat on the shore to see the fun. W., X., P., and L. E. had
each taken the command of one of the boats; and with one European the
natives work very well. They each had on their broad white feather hats
to keep off the sun, and a long stick to keep the people from crowding
into the boats, and looked like pictures of slave-drivers, and were
screaming and gesticulating, and hauling packages in and out. The only
way of passing the camels was by tying six of them in a string to the
tail of an elephant, who then swam across, dragging them all after him.
They did so hate it! I suppose it must be much the same as we should
feel if we were dragged through a bed of hot sand, which is what the
camels really love. The water was like a deep canal; nothing was to be
seen of the elephant but his trunk, and the mahout standing on his back
holding on like grim death by the elephant's ears. The hackeries were
pushed into the water, some of them very high covered carts, but they
disappeared instantly, and were dragged under the water; then if they
stuck anywhere, a dear, good elephant would go in and rake about and
push them along with his great hard head. A little further up, there
might be seen a troop of bullocks refusing to take the water, and at
last driven in, and their owners swimming behind and holding on by their
tails. This has been going on ever since Tuesday morning. Captain P. and
his sergeant have not had their clothes off for three days, and look
thoroughly exhausted. The tent pitchers have also been at work in the
water for three days. What I hate most in a camp is the amount of human
and brute suffering it induces; luckily, there were no lives lost this
time; an elephant picked up one little boy who was drowning. Webb's tame
bear was nearly lost, and when he got into the boat, he turned round to
X. and said, 'I hope, sir, Miss Eden seed me a saving of my bear; it
would make such a pretty _skitch_.' The villain N. met us at the ghaut,
and came to visit us in the morning--not the least ashamed of
himself--but he is by no means an unpolished _jungle-man_: rather the
contrary, jolly and pleasant, only that he has nearly forgotten his
English. He laughs like that Dr. G.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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