'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of IndiaEden, Emily
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'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India
Eden, Emily
Eden, Emily, 1797-1869 -- Correspondence; India -- Description and travel
It is so absurd to hear people talk of their fevers. Mr. M. was to have
joined us a month ago, but unfortunately caught 'the Delhi fever' coming
up: he is to be at Hansi. Z. caught the 'Agra fever' coming up; hopes to
be able to join us at Hansi, but is doubtful. Then N., our Hansi
magistrate, looks with horror at Hansi: he has suffered and still
suffers so much from 'that dreadful Hansi fever.' I myself think 'the
Gugga fever' a more awful visitation, but that is all a matter of
opinion. Anyhow, if N. wished us to know real hardship, fever in camp is
about the most compendious definition of intense misery I know. We
march early each morning; so after a racking night--and I really can't
impress upon you the pain in my _Indian_ bones--it was necessary at
half-past five--just when one might by good luck have fallen asleep--to
get up by candle-light and put on bonnet and cloak and ---- one's
_things_ in short, to drive over _no_ road. I went one morning in the
palanquin, but that was so slow, the carriage was the least evil of the
two. Then on arriving, shivering all over, we were obliged to wait two
hours till the beds appeared; and from that time till ten at night, I
observed by my watch that there was not one minute in which they were
not knocking tent-pins, they said into the ground, but by mistake they
all went into my head--I am sure of it, and am convinced that I wear a
large and full wig of tent-pins. Dr. D. put leeches on me last night,
and I am much better to-day. L. E. is of course ditto: the Gugga fevers
are all alike.
Hansi, Friday, Feb. 1.
I went to sleep at last last night, and am much better to-day; but I see
what N. means about Hansi. Such a place!--not, poor thing! but that it
may be a charming residence in fine weather; but we have had such a wet
day. It began to pour in the night. I am very glad I resisted G.'s offer
of giving me half the horses and the shut carriage, for I suspect even
with all the horses they will have had some difficulty in making out
their long march. Such a road as ours was!--nearly under water. I
started in my palanquin, but after the first three miles the bearers
could hardly get on at all: they stuck and they slipped, and they
helped each other into holes and handed each other out again, but
altogether we did not get on. Captain P. was to have driven me the last
half of the way in his buggy; and as his elephant was like my
bearers--slipping and sticking--we sent on one of the guards for the
buggy, and contrived to get on very well in that. When we came to what
is nominally called 'the ground,' it looked like a very fine lake, in
which my tent and the durbar tent and Dr. D.'s were all that were not
standing in the water. P. and the jemadar carried me in a chair into
mine, and there I was left alone in my glory. He and L. E. took the
durbar tent, their own tents having a foot of water in them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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