'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of IndiaEden, Emily
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'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India
Eden, Emily
Eden, Emily, 1797-1869 -- Correspondence; India -- Description and travel
We marched fifteen miles this morning over a very heavy road. The
mornings are very cold now before the sun rises, but the rest of the day
is very fine. They are luckily making a great deal of ice this year.
Large fields are covered with very shallow porous saucers, which hold a
very little water, and when the thermometer comes down to 36° this turns
into very thin ice, and the people collect it and pound it; they reckon
that about one-third is available in the hot weather, and it is a great
comfort.
Dholepore, Saturday, Jan. 4.
The Dholepore Rajah came to fetch G. in this morning. He seems to run to
size, in everything; wears eight of the largest pearls ever seen; rides
the tallest elephant; his carriage has two stories and is drawn by six
elephants, and he lives in a two-storied tent--ricketty, but still
nobody else has one so large. He is one of the potentates who undertake
to feed all our camp gratis, which is a popular measure with the sepoys
and servants. Scindia, the Gwalior Rajah, is encamped on the other side
of the river, about five miles off, and G. reckons that he will have
about two durbars a day for the next fortnight. He had two to-day--one
for Dholepore himself, and another for Scindia's Vakeel. The Mahrattas
are a very ragamuffin-looking race. E. is the Gwalior resident, and is
on the same fat scale with everything else, except little Violet Snook,
who is trotting about the street very busily. It is rather curious that
the camp should contain three officers rejoicing in the names of Violet
Snook, Gandy Gaitskell, and Orlando Stubbs. Are they common names in
England? Gandy Gaitskell we are uncommonly intimate with; he is always
on guard, and always dining here. Orlando Stubbs is a novelty.
Sunday, Jan. 5.
The officers of the Gwalior contingent sent to ask when they could call,
and I thought it would be good for their morals to say that church began
at eleven, and we could see them afterwards. They live five miles off,
so Colonel E. gave them a breakfast before church, and when I went out
this morning early, they were all arriving, and Violet Snook was rushing
in and out in a violent state of excitement, receiving his brother
officers, shaking hands, and bowing and ordering, and in short it was
quite pleasant to see a Violet with such spirits, and a Snook with such
manners. They all came after church, and seemed a gentleman-like set. I
think if I were a soldier, I should like to belong to a local corps, or
a contingent; they all wear such pretty fancy dresses.
Monday, Jan. 6.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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