Montevideo is situated at a peculiarly advantageous point on the
Uruguayan shore. No student of geography, it is true, could point out
the exact limits of so immense a stream as the La Plata. Yet for all
practical purposes the capital of the Republic sits just beside this
very phenomenon. Thus it may be said that the eastern side of the town
faces the ocean, while the southern looks upon the River Plate. To
enter more fully into the geographical details of the spot, the chief
commercial and governmental districts cover a peninsula that juts well
out into the waters, thus forming the eastern extremity of the
semicircular bay of the actual port. Upon the ocean side of the
peninsula the shore recedes abruptly northwards for a short space, and
it is here that lie the pleasant inlets that are not a little famed as
pleasure resorts.
At the riverward extremity of the port bay is a landmark that is
indelibly associated with Montevideo, whether viewed from sea or land.
The famous Cerro is a conical hill, surmounted by a fort that
dominates all the surrounding landscape. But of the Cerro, since for
various reasons it is a place of importance, more later. The capital
itself claims the right to prior notice, and to the rendering of a few
introductory facts.
Since the distance between the chief town of either republic only just
exceeds a hundred miles, a comparison between Montevideo and Buenos
Aires is almost inevitable. Indeed, it has become something of a hobby
on the part of the Oriental who has visited the Argentine city, and
vice versâ. Fortunately, the comparison can be made without the
engendering of bad blood, since to a great extent that which the one
town lacks is possessed by the other. Thus, in the first place
Montevideo, although astonishingly thriving, is without the hastening
crowds and feverish hustle of the city across the waters. Again,
although its sheltered bay is yearly accommodating more and larger
vessels, the Oriental town is innocent of those many miles of docks
teeming throughout with steamers. Yet, on the other hand, it possesses
its rocks and shining sands of pleasure that draw the Argentines
themselves in shoals across the river.
Indeed, the atmosphere of Montevideo is restful, and at the same time
free from the slightest taint of stagnation. Even the more modest
thoroughfares are comparatively broad, while the many new avenues are
spacious and well planned to a degree. Perhaps the keynote to the town
in these respects may be found in the fact that, although the absolute
dominion of the priests has long been a thing of the past, the sound
of the cathedral and church bells is audible above the hum of the
traffic. Even in the ears of the most ardent Protestant the effect is
not without its soothing and tranquillising properties.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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