But an attempt to describe the various growths would be the task of a
botanist. One alone must be described for its striking propensities if
for nothing beyond. In all directions are bushes of glowing mauve
flower--or, at least, so they appear at the first glimpse to the eye.
The sight is not a little amazing, since many of the shrubs, a dozen
feet in height, are covered from top to bottom with an unbroken coat
of petals. A nearer inspection solves the mystery some while after.
The flower itself is a parasite, an everlasting sweet pea, that goes
the length of concealing from sight the bush on which it depends.
In the meanwhile the valley has widened until the well-defined cliffs
that hemmed in its beginning have disappeared altogether. But the
country remains entirely distinct from the open Campo that preceded
the gate of Eden. There is pasture here, it is true, but it is pasture
broken and intersected by woodland, river courses, ravines, and
mountains. It is curious to remark that among the latter, although
many are bold and lofty, there is not a peak to be met with. In
obedience to what appears to be a hard-and-fast law of the hills, the
top of each is shorn evenly across, leaving a flat and level summit.
The country is one of tobacco now as well as of maize, and the aspect
of the cultivators coincides to a great extent with the popular
notions of the _mise en scène_ of the tobacco-fields. The population
of the tiny mud huts that decorate the land is almost entirely negro,
and the inevitable piccaninny is much in evidence, having apparently
escaped in shoals from the London music-hall stage. The costume of the
younger boys, however, would scarcely pass muster in a more
conventional neighbourhood. The sole garment of many of the younger
ones consists of a shirt, and a very frayed one at that--a costume
that is eminently suitable to the palm-tree, but criminal beneath the
oak.
The next halt is at a place of importance, one of the chief features,
in fact, of the Far North. Tacuarembo numbers a population of almost
eight thousand, which, although the figure may not impress the outer
world, renders the spot something of an urban giant in the
neighbourhood. As though to compensate for its lack of imposing
buildings, Tacuarembo is exceedingly picturesque. With its avenues of
tall trees, and its houses peering everywhere from beneath the shade
of an unusual richness of vegetation, the place is sufficiently
delightful and striking in its own fashion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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