Curiously enough, the least smooth portion of this highway is
represented by a mile or so of its length on the outskirts of
Montevideo itself. This point once passed, however, the undulations in
the surface of the road die away, and the broad grey thoroughfare
stretches with remarkable smoothness over hill and dale. The car can
snort along at the utmost speed its power will permit, since the grey
band opens out ahead with a refreshing openness that is totally devoid
of secrecy, and only at the lengthiest intervals is its surface
darkened by the form of a rider or of a lumbering country cart.
The progress is of the switchback order, with long-drawn-out rises and
falls that are effected with alternate exuberance and strainings,
while on either hand the fields, verdure, and masses of fruit blossom
speed by in very pleasant sequence. For a spring shower has laid the
dust, and when the Oriental landscape smiles, its countenance is
supremely fascinating. As though to add just the tinge of sombreness
that is requisite for the accentuation of the delightful scene, a
dark forest of eucalyptus stands out here and there by the way, the
massive serried trunks and branches painting the landscape with a
heavy splash of gloom.
For the first few leagues the aspect of the country--although the
great variety of its attributes preserves it entirely from the taint
of mere monotony--remains much the same. After a while, however, the
skyline to the right becomes lightened in a rather remarkable fashion.
The foreground is a medley of green, brown, and purple--rendered
respectively by the hills, trees, orchards, and a patch or two of
ploughed soil. At the back of these rich colours a range of very lofty
snow-white sand-dunes has risen up. The gleaming barrier marks the
frontier-line of the land; upon its farther side, invisible, of
course, from inland, are the breakers of the South Atlantic Ocean.
Indeed, the effect of this spotless range, when viewed from the
shoreward side, is doubly curious, since the verdant landscape that
leads right up to them gives no other indication of the propinquity of
the sea.
To the north-east elevations of quite another kind have been slowly
rising upwards from the horizon as the car speeds along. As the town
of Pando itself is more nearly approached, the distant mountains of
Minas have swollen into view to assert themselves in a fashion that is
not to be overlooked. Great rounded masses piled in dim purple against
the horizon, their aspect presents a sharp contrast to that of the
dunes close by. The latter are shadowless things, clear-cut and
wanting in depth for all their purity; the inland mountains are deep
and secretive, with an outline that confounds itself mysteriously with
the sky.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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