Encouraged by this example, numerous other landholders of the district
have succeeded in cultivating similar plantations, and the result has
proved highly beneficial, not only in the transformation of the
country but from the commercial point of view as well. For districts
that until recently were absolutely worthless are now valued at
anything from ten dollars to forty dollars the hectare.
A peculiar characteristic of these Maldonado sand-dunes is to be met
with in the fulgurites that are found there--the vitrified sand-tubes
caused by the action of lightning that are referred to by Darwin on
the occasion of his visit to the spot. Similar phenomena obtain in a
few other corners of the world, but those found here are by far the
largest in size, some extending to no less than five feet in length.
Owing, however, to their extremely fragile nature, it is impossible to
extract these larger specimens in any fashion but in comparatively
small fragments.
Mr. C. E. R. Rowland, the British Vice-Consul at Montevideo, has taken
especial interest in these fulgurites of the Maldonado Sands. The
British Museum contains some very fine specimens sent by him, and he
has supplied the national museum at Montevideo with its first
specimens of these curiosities. This same gentleman, by the way, quite
recently discovered two distinct species of Uruguayan lizards that,
sent for classification to the South Kensington Natural History
Museum, were discovered to be of kinds that until then had been
perfectly unknown. They remain in the museum to which they were sent,
dignified by the name of their discoverer.
CHAPTER XVII
MERCEDES AND THE SWISS COLONY
The journey to Mercedes--The outskirts of Montevideo--Santa
Lucia--A pleasant town--Native quince and gorse--San José--The
terminus of a great highway--Some feats of engineering--The urban
importance of San José--A modern flour mill--Mal
Abrigo--Character of the soil--A country of boulders--Some
animals of the Sierra de Mal Abrigo--The surroundings of
Mercedes--A charmingly situated town--The terminus of the
line--Some characteristics of Mercedes--Urban dwellings--The
delights of the patio--The disadvantages of economy in
space--Streets and plazas--The hospital--A well-equipped
institution--View from the building--An island in Rio Negro--The
Port of Mercedes--River craft--Some local scenes--An equine
passenger--Formidable gutters--The industries of the town--The
Hôtel Comercio--Colonia Suiza--Situation of the Swiss
Colony--Uruguayan Campo dwellings--Method of
construction--Simplicity of household removals--Aspect of
deserted huts--The houses of the Swiss Colony--Habits in general
of South American colonists--The range of nationalities--Liberty
accorded--Population of the Colonia Suiza--Its industries--A
dairy-farming community--An important butter factory--An instance
of a rapid rise from poverty to riches.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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