As a town Mercedes is attractive to a degree. The place can boast of
no great size, it is true, since its population does not exceed ten
thousand. Yet it is exceptionally fortunate both in its situation and
in the style of its buildings. The main portion of the city consists
of some half-dozen streets running parallel to the river, crossed by a
rather greater number of thoroughfares that lead directly from the
water's edge. The houses are almost without exception of the older
style of architecture--rather low, spreading buildings, each of which
encloses one of those charming patios that, alas! are now growing
steadily fewer with each year. Surely nothing is more delightful than
this verdure-filled courtyard set in the midst of the house--the small
stone-bound garden with its flowers, shrubs, and palms, on to which
give all the lower rooms of the establishment! They would doubtless
continue to exist for centuries were it not for the growing power and
insistence of their chief enemy, economy of space!
The streets and plazas of Mercedes are fairly animated, for the town
is the centre of considerable social life. The majority of folk here
are of rather darker complexion than those of the capital, but the
women are almost equally good-looking. _Coches_ are plentiful in the
town; each of the two-horsed buggies will seat six people with ease,
and even then will speed along at an exhilarating pace, for the steeds
of these public conveyances are both willing and well cared for.
The highest point of the town is occupied by the hospital. This, like
so many other Uruguayan institutions of the kind, is a very fine
establishment, well appointed, and provided with large, airy rooms and
corridors. From the roof of this hospital is revealed a magnificent
view of the town and its surroundings. The entire panorama is one not
easily to be forgotten. So far as the river itself is concerned, it is
possible from this point of vantage to follow its windings for miles
in both directions. The river here, by the way, attains to very nearly
a quarter of a mile in width--no despicable stretch of water even for
a tributary of the mighty Uruguay.
In mid-stream just opposite Mercedes is an island--a gem of an island
embowered in luxurious vegetation, and completely fringed by large
weeping willows, whose drooping festoons of green all but touch the
waters. In conformity with the utilitarian spirit of the age, a scheme
is on foot for the construction of an hotel in this place, and surely
no more alluring spot could be lit upon for the purpose--although the
danger to the landscape from the erection of an unsuitable building
would be very real.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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