The general aspects of this colony are peculiarly agreeable. Situated in one of the most pleasant districts of a smiling land, it is well watered and timbered. The verdure of the place, moreover, is enhanced by the numerous green lanes that intersect it. Indeed, no more delightful situation could be imagined than that occupied by many of the châlets of Swiss design. CHAPTER XVIII COLONIA An historical town--Rarity of ruins in the River Plate countries--Specimens at Colonia--Situation of the town--Past antagonism between the capitals of Argentina and Uruguay--Present aspect of Colonia compared with the former--A sleepy hollow--Periodical awakenings of the place--Impressions of the old town--Its colouring and compactness--Fortifications of the city of discord--A warlike history--Nations that have warred together at this spot--The reddest corner in a bloodstained land--Surroundings of the town--Crumbling masonry--A medley of old and new--A Colonia street--Old-time scenes of peace and war--Some pictures of the past--Cannon as road posts--The Plaza--An episode in the wars with Portugal--The eternity of romance--Real de San Carlo--A modern watering-place--Its buildings--The bullring--A gigantic pelota-court--Popularity of the spot--A miniature tramway--Attractions of Real de San Carlo--Vegetation on the sands--A curious colour scheme--Pleasant lanes--Buenos Aires as a supplier of tourists. The small town of Colonia stands quite alone in many respects. Not as regards situation, climate, and a reputation as a pleasure resort. In all these three the spot is especially favoured; yet in each of these it possesses a number of formidable rivals along the Uruguayan coast. Excursionists flock to Colonia, it is true, but such flighty nomads are more concerned with beaches and bathing than with the subtler and deeper interests of the spot. To the historian and to the antiquarian Colonia represents a gem. It must be admitted that the values of such treasures go strictly by comparison. Uruguay is rich in the amethyst and topaz, but poor in architectural ruins. Indeed, these romantic features are distressingly--or pleasingly--rare throughout all the lands that made up the provinces of the old River Plate. So far as I am aware, almost the sole examples of any real antiquity are to be met with in the Jesuit ruins of Paraguay and the Misiones Province, and in the few fragmentary Inca relics upon the Andes slopes. Beyond these there is Colonia. Therefore if the gem lack the full brilliance of some of the specimens that an older continent can produce, its importance must not be under-estimated, since it possesses the rare merit of being all but unique in its own country.