Vacation days in GreeceRichardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
History
Vacation days in Greece
Richardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
Greece -- Description and travel
for months, so that it is almost ready to be detached. Hard by are some
already detached and rolled a little distance toward Selinus; still
others are found transported half-way or more to the temple. The people
of the country are filled with wonder at the sight. They recognize the
fact that all these blocks were meant for the great temple; and some of
them told an early traveller that the women of Selinus used to carry
these stones on their heads from the quarry to the temple, spinning
flax all the way as they went, adding, with naïveté: "But, you know, it
was a race of women much larger than ours."
These interesting temples show, as they stand side by side, great
freedom in the application of the rules of Doric style. For instance,
the number of columns on the side of a hexastyle temple varies from
thirteen to seventeen. The number of steps also varies from two to six,
instead of the canonical three.
When we visited Segesta the next day and saw its temple, also
unfinished, as it was when the city was stricken down by the Greek
Agathocles, we felt little pity for this city which had stirred up so
much mischief for its foe, Selinus, and for its friend, Athens. But
perhaps, after all, this Elymian city's greatest crime was saying, "I
must live." If Selinus refused to accept this proposition, Segesta
called in Athens or Carthage, regardless of the woes that might in
consequence come upon those who disputed her right to live.
In shooting down from Segesta to the northern shore, without further
exploration of what may be called the country of Æneas, we got glimpses
of Mount Eryx, the favorite haunt of Venus; and later in the day the
train brought us to Palermo, "that wonderful cross-section of history."
But as it was not rich in Greek history our tour in western Hellas was
at an end.
DALMATIA
June, lovely June, has been the bringer of two good things to
me--Sicily and the Dalmatian coast; and now that the charm of the
latter is fresh it seems almost to outshine the former.
When I came on board the Austrian Lloyd steamer Galatea at Corfu I
had little idea of what awaited me. One reads of this "Norway of the
South," this "Switzerland in the sea"; but how little these comparisons
convey until the landscape has really been seen. My main purpose was
rest from the heat of Greece, and a more or less careful study of the
ruins of Spalato.
This Dalmatian line is adapted to one who wishes to travel lazily.
The stops as far as Spalato are longer than the passages; the boat,
however, starts in each case promptly according to the schedule. The
only exception was at Corfu; when all was ready, and we were just about
to hoist the anchor, a Greek boatman came up alongside with a barge
loaded with casks and boxes. It was so characteristic of a Greek.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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