Vacation days in GreeceRichardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
History
Vacation days in Greece
Richardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
Greece -- Description and travel
which he enjoyed among his cabbages at Salona. There can be little
doubt that the reason which influenced him to choose Salona as his
place of retirement was that it was his birthplace, although the
Montenegrins hold that they have the true birthplace in Doclea, not far
from Cettinje.
But the old Emperor's musings in his great palace must have been sadder
than Hadrian's conversings with his soul at Tivoli. Here he learned
of the triumph of Christianity through Constantine, a meaner spirit
than he. Then came the overturning of his statues at Rome and the
banishment and subsequent butchery of his wife and daughter. Added to
all this was a painful illness; and in the eighth year of his residence
in that palace where he had promised himself so much comfort and sweet
peace, to adopt the words of Marcus Aurelius, that noblest Roman of
them all, he "found the house smoky and went out."
Beside the pathetic interest attaching to the great founder of the
palace, another interest attaches to the immuring of it in the modern
city. In the seventh century Anno Domini waves of barbarians swept down
along the coast of Dalmatia. One of these was composed of Avars--a
people often mixed up, whether rightly or wrongly, with the Huns.
Even more than the Huns they were a "scourge of God." After leaving
a desert in their trail, butchering men and yoking women to their
carts, they came into this lovely region, destroyed the great city,
and then decided to settle down here. There was a grand scattering of
the degenerate Romans, who had been unable to hold their own, to the
neighboring islands, but after awhile a remnant came back and occupied
the palace, which was fairly well adapted to be used as a fort. Here
they defied the Avars, and at last outstayed them. The result was the
present city of Spalato.
One's first impression is that the palace, although tremendously
impressive from the outside wherever that is visible, has yet suffered
immensely from its partial burial in the modern city. The two temples
within were much more buried than the great wall, and have been only
partially brought to light again. But in another aspect of the case
the modern city saved the palace. Had the latter stood by itself it
would have been treated as a stone quarry, like so many ancient cities,
Salona itself, for example. Now there is hope that by removing here and
there a modern building--a process that was begun some time ago--the
greater part of the palace may be restored to the light of day. In
fact, the Porta Aurea has quite recently been freed from encumbrances
and, even without being restored, makes a fine impression.
From all that one now sees it is clear that the architecture, though
impressive as a whole, is shabby when examined in detail. The exquisite
finish of the Greek is, of course, lacking. But even compared with some
other Roman work it is seen to have been hastily done. Its nearest
parallel is found in Palmyra, which was restored by Diocletian.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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