Vacation days in GreeceRichardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
History
Vacation days in Greece
Richardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
Greece -- Description and travel
After being _presens_ and _admirans_ for half a day, wherever I could
enter and climb, I sought out Father Bulich, the director of the
museum as well as supervisor of all the archæological interests and
undertakings of Spalato and Salona, in order to get him to show me the
things that were under lock and key. I found him at his house dickering
with some visitors for antiquities, and the last I saw of him, two
days later, he was engaged in the same occupation. Nothing could
exceed his cordiality and his active help. As soon as he could get rid
of his visitors he brought out all the best works on Spalato, some
of them loaded with illustrations, and sent them around to my hotel.
Unfortunately, I could not get half time, even by sitting up all night,
to read any large part of them. Then he took me over three of his
five or six small museums with which he has to put up instead of the
large one for which he prays as well as labors. But though he has done
much to bring order out of the chaos which he found, some luckier man
than he will probably be the arranger of the museum of Spalato worthy
of the name. Amid much that is common and uninteresting, and yet too
good to throw away, are objects of great value and importance. Nearly
everything is from Salona. He has catalogued and published nearly two
thousand seven hundred inscriptions. Gems are strongly represented,
as well as coins and other small objects. Sculpture, aside from some
good fragments, is represented mostly by sarcophagi, very few of which
rise above mediocrity. It is interesting to see here, as elsewhere, a
sarcophagus with the representation of Phædra and Hippolytos spared by
the Christians, who took Hippolytos as the "chaste Joseph." The oldest
object in any of the museums is a sphinx shown by an inscription to
belong to Amenophis III., the Memnon of the Greeks, of about 1500 B.C.
In one museum is a cast of a really fine head of Herakles, found in the
neighborhood but kept by the monks at Sinj.
Of objects which did _not_ come from Salona may be mentioned certain
Greek inscriptions which show the presence of Greeks on these coasts
and islands long before the great days of Rome. Of course it was
unlikely that, having put a girdle of colonies around southern Italy,
and pushed up along the eastern shore of the Adriatic as far as
Epidauros (Ragusa), they should remain strangers to this region so
crowded with islands, just their kind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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