Vacation days in GreeceRichardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
History
Vacation days in Greece
Richardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
Greece -- Description and travel
The Bay of Navarino, about three miles long from north to south, and
about two miles broad, is a large natural harbor, shut off from the
sea by what was in prehistoric ages a long, continuous cliff, but
which in historic times had already been broken open in three places.
The opening farthest north had ages ago already been silted up with
sand; and the next one is in a fair way to become so before long. The
northern end of the bay has also been a good deal silted up by streams
flowing into it; and a long sand-bar has at last entirely shut it off
from the rest, making of it a lake.
The particular feature which imparts picturesqueness to the bay is
the already mentioned cliff, which rises almost perpendicularly in
the greater part of its extent to a height varying from one hundred
to three hundred feet, or even more. The face of these cliffs is in
places very red, and when struck by the morning sun they are gorgeously
colored.
In the fifth century before Christ the southern section of the hill was
called Sphacteria, and was, of course, an island; the section next it
on the north, which would have been an island had not the opening to
the north of it been silted up, was called Pylos; after that follows
a low promontory well joined to the mainland. There can be little
doubt that the name Pylos is a survival of Homeric times, and that
here we must look for the home of Nestor. It has become a fashion in
the past few years to look for the Homeric Pylos farther north, partly
to furnish a better road for Telemachos's chariot ride from Pylos to
Sparta, and partly because no Mycenæan remains have been found here.
But it is about as easy to take Telemachos straight over Taygetos as it
is to find any more convenient road farther north. Pheræ, where the
two days' journey was divided by a night's rest, has been reasonably
well identified with some ancient walls on the slope of Taygetos above
Kalamata; and if the journey was undertaken from our Pylos it would be
about evenly divided there.
Furthermore, in the great cave on the north end of Pylos, which is
probably the cave where, according to legend, the baby Hermes hid the
oxen of Apollo which he had stolen, there were found in 1896 vase
fragments of Mycenæan and even of pre-Mycenæan times. Who knows how
soon serious excavations may bring to light Mycenæan walls under the
great Venetian fortress? Such a harbor as this could hardly have failed
to be known and occupied in the earliest times; and surely there is
sand enough here to justify Homer's standing epithet of "Sandy Pylos."
But if the Homeric glory should be stolen away, this bay would yet be
remembered as the scene of that most picturesque of naval battles in
which the allied fleet, sailing in through the broad southern entrance
one afternoon in 1827, annihilated in two hours the Ottoman fleet, and
brought about the independence of Greece. Some of the wrecks from this
battle are still to be seen on shore and beneath the water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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