Vacation days in GreeceRichardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
History
Vacation days in Greece
Richardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
Greece -- Description and travel
It was this especial claim which drew me and my two companions, members
of the American School at Athens, to Catania. We desired to become as
familiar with western Hellas as we had already become with eastern
Hellas. We came rather too late in the year; not that physical comfort
is an element for great consideration in such a land; it is rather
the psychological aspect which I have in mind. Theocritus has thrown
such associations of spring over Sicily that the traveller feels
that he ought to be there with "pulses thronged with the fulness of
the spring," which can hardly be the case in the great heat of June.
Perhaps our bicycles might seem to some out of time with Theocritus
and Pindar, and we did not try to throw any glamour of poetry over
them. But they were vastly convenient. We had sent forward our heavy
luggage to Palermo, and they carried all that we needed for two weeks.
While they were not a substitute for trains, they freed us from servile
dependence on trains. If a train went our way at our time, as it
did from Syracuse to Girgenti, we took it. But finding no railroad
connection between Girgenti and Selinus, except such as took us across
to the north side of the island and then back again to the south side,
we passed the intervening space in a direct line along the southern
shore, saving both time and money. When we were at Syracuse we wished
to visit the river Asinaros, where the fugitive Athenian army was
brought to bay and slaughtered and captured. The five o'clock train was
too early. Who likes to take a morning meal at half-past four with the
fear of losing a train before his eyes? Discomfort if not dyspepsia
hovers over him. The alternative of a later train involved giving up
the day to this excursion, and we needed that day for something else.
We took a comfortable meal, and, starting at six o'clock, at a quarter
past eight were on the banks of the Asinaros, and by the aid of a train
were back in Syracuse at ten o'clock, ready for a good day's work.
Our beginning was inauspicious. A chapter of small accidents on the
lava-paved streets of Catania kept us hovering around a shop presided
over by a woman in which sewing-machines and a few other miscellaneous
machines, including bicycles, were repaired. Here, in a subordinate
position, was one of those mechanics who know how to do things as if
by instinct, a not unworthy successor of Hephæstos, who used to do
business on a grander scale hard by, with Ætna for his forge. Your
real mechanic, from Tubal Cain down, is always the right man in the
right place. A deft-handed New Hampshire mechanic once said to me,
after putting some dislocated object to rights in less than five
minutes, "I shall have to charge you ten cents for doing the job and
fifteen cents for knowing how." It struck me as a good expression of
the claims of the guild.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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