Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
I found him much
better than his books. We had a pleasant three hours’ rail to Newport,
finding Mr. Field, a Philadelphian banker, at the station with
his carriage. We were friends at once, for he is a famous, frank,
goodlooking, John Bullish man of the world, who has travelled all over
Europe and retained his new world simplicity and heartiness. He drove
us all round the fashionable watering-place, the description of which
I must postpone or I never shall get through (as we say here). His
cottage, as he calls it, in accordance with the fashion here, is a
charming villa, on the most southern point of Newport, close to the
rocks on which the grand Atlantic roll was beating magnificently as we
drove up.
Saturday morning a lot of men came to breakfast, including Colonel
H------, the officer who had been the first to volunteer to take
command of negroes in Virginia, before the New England States even began
mustering them. I was delighted to make his acquaintance, as I knew his
name in my anti-slavery standard as a real, advanced Radical, and I was
anxious to realise that type of Yankee of which I had only seen Lloyd
Garrison in England. He was very fascinating to my mind, and the
most refined man in manners and look I have yet met, but I should
say decidedly a cracked fellow in the good sense. We adjourned to the
spouting rock, just at the point where the surf was beating gloriously,
and as I continued talking with H------, of course I got a ducking by
getting too near this rock, which is hollow underneath, so that it
sends a spout of water up like a huge whale some second or two after the
breaker hits it. The sight was superb, and well worth the payment of an
unstarched waistcoat and shirt. We got home, and I changed at 11.30
or thereabouts, and when I came in to dress for dinner there was my
waistcoat, washed and starched, on the bed. Mrs. Field had heard me
say in joke that I should be out of white waistcoats. We went to the
Episcopal Church on Sunday morning and had a good sermon of a quarter
of an hour, sitting in the pew of an acquaintance of the previous day,
a Mrs. H------ of New York, who drove us about in her handsome carriage,
and insisted on giving me two books--one being extracts from Lincoln’s
_Speeches and Letters_, which I am very glad to have. In the evening
we were sent down to the pier, where we were picked up by the most
magnificent steamer ever seen in the world, I should think, and by
six next morning were running along the north river, one of the many
entrances by sea to New York harbour. The approaches to the city are
superb, but the first view of it disappointed me, the buildings along
the water-side being for the most part poor and almost mean. We found
Hewitt’s carriage waiting, he being out of town for his Sunday, and
drove up through Broadway and Fourth Avenue to his house, which is a
splendid roomy one, belonging to his father-inlaw, Mr. Cooper. The dear
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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