Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
of fruits and tobacco, from the trees yet to be planted and seed yet to
be sown. All which seems to prove that Cincinnati, at any rate, has
done well to adopt the motto, “L’audace, toujours l’audace,” which is,
indeed, characteristic of this country and this time.
And the big work has not only been done, but done well and permanently.
The engineering difficulties must have been very great; the cuttings and
tunnels had to be made through hard rock, and the bridges over streams
which have cut for themselves channels hundreds of feet deep. We crossed
the Kentucky river, on (I believe) the highest railway bridge in
the world, 283 feet above the water; and rushed from a tunnel in the
limestone rock right on to the bridge which spans the north fork of the
Cumberland river, 170 feet below. The lightness of the ironwork on which
these bridges rest startles one at first, but experience has shown them
to be safe, and the tests to which they have been put on this line would
have tried most seriously the strength of far more massive structures.
But it is only in its bridges that the Cincinnati Southern Railway has
a light appearance. The building of the line has a solid and permanent
look, justifying, I should think, the very considerable sum per mile
which has been spent on it above the ordinary cost in this country. And
by the only test which an amateur is as well able to apply as an expert,
that of writing on a journey, I can testify that it is as smoothly laid
as the average of our leading English lines. For the last fifty miles we
ran almost entirely through forests, which are, however, falling rapidly
all along the side of the line, and yielding place to corn-fields in
the rich bottoms, wherever any reasonably level ground bordered the
water-courses, up which we could glance as we hurried past. I was
surprised, and, I need not say, greatly pleased, to see the apparently
excellent terms on which the white and coloured people were, even in
the Kuklux regions through which we came. A Northern express man, our
companion at this point, denounced it as the most lawless in the United
States. About one hundred homicides, he declared, had taken place in the
last year, and no conviction had been obtained, the juries looking on
such things as regrettable accidents. This may be so, but I can, at any
rate, testify, from careful observation of the mixed gangs of workmen
on the road, and the groups gathered at the numerous stations, to the
familiar and apparently friendly footing on which the races met. As
for the decrease of the blacks, it must be in other regions than those
traversed by the Cincinnati Southern Railway, for the cabins we passed
in the clearings and round the stations swarmed with small urchins, clad
in single garments, the most comic little figures of fun, generally,
that one had ever seen, as they stood staring and signalling to the
train. There is something to me so provocative of mirth in the race,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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