Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
I think, sir, you will allow that there are attractions enough of all
kinds provided by the Compagnie Anonyme des Eaux Minérales de Royat, who
own the _parc_ and run the business. They can well afford it, as every
visitor pays 10 francs as an _abonnement_ for drinking the waters, and
the charges for baths are high, e.g. 2.50 francs for a separate bath,
and 2 francs for the swimming-bath, decidedly more than any of our
English watering-places, not excepting Bath; but one has so much more
fun, if one wants it, for the money. And then there is this immense
thing to be said for this Royat Company,--their park is entirely free
and open to any one who cares to walk through it. I have seen scores of
peasants in blouses, and their wives, sitting about during the concerts,
not on the same terrace with the band, where a sou is charged for
chairs, but near enough to hear the music perfectly; and one meets them
all about the garden, walking and chatting amongst the--I was going to
write “well dressed,” but that they are not, but eminently respectable,
if rather dowdy--crowds of bathers and visitors. I do not, of course,
mean that there are no exceptions, either in the case of dowdiness or
respectability, but they are rare enough to prove the rule. On the other
hand, the number of religious of both sexes is remarkable who come to
use the waters, principally for throat ailments. Sisters of several
kinds, some wearing black hoods with white breastplates, others in large
white head-dresses, with long flaps, like a bird’s wings, which flap as
they walk, are frequent in the early mornings and other quiet times; and
besides the regular clergy, there are three monkish orders represented.
Of these the most striking are two Franciscans, I believe, clad in
rough, ruddy-brown flannel gowns, reaching to the ground, with large
rosaries hanging before and cowls behind, and girt with knotted ropes.
Peter the Hermit preached the First Crusade in the neighbouring Church
of St. Mary of the port at Clermont, assisted doubtless by many a friar
clad precisely as these are, except that the modern monk or friar (as
I was disappointed to note, at any rate in one case) does not go
bare-footed, or even in sandals, but in substantial shoes and trousers!
I was much struck by the quiet, patient, and reverent expression on
all the faces, very different from what I remember in past years.
Persecution may very well account, however, for this. There is no
branch, I take it, of the Church Universal which does not thrive under
it, in the best sense.
Auvergne en Fête, 6th September 1890.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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