Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The rest are, for the most part, private tablets,
thanksgivings for the cure of all manner of sickness and disease to
which flesh is heir. To this shrine all sufferers have come in the
faith which finds a voice all round these old walls,--“Qu’on est heureux
d’avoir Marie pour mère”! That human instinct which longs for a female
protectrix and mediator “behind the veil,” speaks here, too, as it
did 2000 years ago, when the [Greek phrase] guarded the shrines of
Athens and her colonies.
Scoppio Del Carro, Florence, Easter Eve, 1891.
I have just come back from witnessing an extraordinary, and, I should
think, a unique ceremony, which is enacted here on Easter Eve; and, on
sitting down quietly to think it over, can scarcely say whether I am
most inclined to laugh, or to cry, or to swear. In truth, the “Scoppio
del Carro”--or “explosion of the fireworks”--as it is called, is a
curious comment on, or illustration of, your last week’s remarks on
Superstitions. “The carefully preserved dry husk of outward observance”
in this case undoubtedly speaks, to those who have ears to hear, of a
heroic time, and the spectator rubs his eyes, and feels somehow--
As though he looked upon the sheath
Which once had clasped Excalibur.
At any rate, that is rather how I felt, as, standing at noon in the
dense crowd in the nave of the Duomo, I saw the procession pass within
a few feet of me, on their way from the great entrance up to the high
altar, which was ablaze already with many tall candles. Although within
a few feet, the intervening crowd was so thick that I could only see the
heads and shoulders of the taller choristers and priests as they passed;
but I saw plainly enough, though the wearer was low of stature, the tall
mitre--it looked like gold--which the Archbishop wore as he walked in
the procession. Our bishops, I am told, are wearing or going to wear
them (Heaven save the mark!), which made me curious. They threaded their
way slowly up to the high altar; and presently we heard in the distance
intoning and chants; and then, after brief pause, the dove (so called)
started from the crucifix, I think, at any rate from a high point on the
altar, for the open door. But in order to be clear as to what the dove
carries and is supposed to do, we must go back to the Second Crusade.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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