Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The rest of our Sunday was by no means so successful, for the _fête du
jour et du soir_ began soon after our 11 A.M. _déjeûner_, and lasted
till about 10 P.M., when the lights in most of the paper-lanterns had
burnt out, and people had gone home from the Casino and the promenade
to their hotels or lodgings. I am old-fashioned enough to like a quiet
Sunday; but here, when the place is _en fête_, that is out of the
question,--at any rate, if you are a guest at one of the hotels which,
as they almost all do, faces on the “Avenue Gueneau de Mussy.” That name
will probably remind some of your readers of the able and popular doctor
of the Orleans family, who accompanied their exile, lived in England
during the Empire in Mortimer Street, Cavendish Square, and was popular
in London society. After 1870 he returned to France, and, it seems,
rediscovered these waters, or, at any rate, made them the fashionable
resort of patients in need of arsenical treatment. In gratitude, his
name has been given to this main avenue of La Bourboule, which runs the
whole length of the town, parallel to the River Dordogne, which comes
rushing down the valley from Mont Dore at a pace which I have never seen
water attain except in the rapids below Niagara, in which that strongest
and rashest of swimmers, Captain Webb, lost his life. The Avenue, though
parallel with, is some fifty yards from the river, and the intervening
space is planted with rows of trees, under which many donkeys and
hacks stand for the convenience of visitors. The opposite bank of
the Dordogne, which is crossed by two bridges, rises abruptly, and is
crowned by the two rival casinos, with the most imposing hotel of the
place between them, where (I am told) you pay 5 fr. a day extra for the
convenience of the only lift in La Bourboule! The fête of last Sunday
was given by the old Casino, and commenced directly after _déjeûner_
with a gathering in the rooms and in front of the Casino on the terrace,
where the guests sat at small tables consuming black coffee, absinthe,
and other drinks, and strolling now and then into the billiard-room, or
the room in which the _jeu aux petits chevaux_, and some other game of
chance which I did not recognise, were in full swing. There is an inner
room where baccarat and roulette are going on, supposed to be only open
to tickets bought from the^ authorities, but which a young Englishman,
my neighbour at the _table d’hôte_, tells me he found no difficulty in
entering without a ticket. The rest of the fête, consisting chiefly of
donkey-races, climbing greasy poles, and fishing half-francs out of
meal tubs with the mouth, came off in a small park and plateau on the
hillside above the Casino.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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