Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
Six weeks ago, when I was considering where I should go for my autumn
holiday, some remarks of yours decided me “to give poor Paddy-land a
turn” (the phrase is not mine, but that of the first housemaid I came
across in Dublin). When one has been talking and thinking for the last
eight years of little else than that “distressful country,” it certainly
seemed a fair suggestion that one might as well go and look at it when
one got the chance. So I have scrambled round from Dublin to Kerry, and
from Cork to the Giant’s Causeway, and can bear hearty witness to the
soundness of your advice. For a flying visit of a few weeks, though
insufficient for any serious study of a people or country, may greatly
help one in judging both of them from one’s ordinary standpoint at home.
Of course, the first object of an Englishman who has not lost his head
must be to ascertain whether the Irish people really long for a separate
Parliament, and a severance of all connection with the rest of
the Empire. Well, sir, I was prepared to find that the men in the
street--car-drivers, boatmen, waiters, and fellow-travellers on the
railways--would, to a great extent, adapt their opinions to whatever
they might think would please their questioner, but certainly was quite
unprepared for the absolute unanimity with which I was assured that Home
Rule is dead. It is only the American-Irish, and especially the “Biddys
of New York,” so my informants protested, “who want to break up the
Union.” I was warned, however, as to the man in the street. “You must
remember that our people are full of imagination, and you must take
off a large discount from all they tell you; but you’ll always find
a groundwork of fact at the bottom of their stories.” A good piece of
advice, which a professional friend in Dublin started me with, and which
I found to be true enough, except that where local politics or the land
came in, the groundwork of fact was apt to be too minute to be easily
discerned. Take, as an example, a story which was told me on the spot
by a thoroughly trustworthy witness. Towards the end of Mr. Forster’s
Chief-Secretaryship a sensation message was flashed to New York that a
Government stronghold had been taken by the Invincibles, the garrison
having surrendered with all the guns and stores. This announcement
produced a liberal response in dollars from the other side, particularly
from “the Biddys of New York.” Now for the “groundwork of fact”
underlying this superstructure. The Government have, it seems, on
their hands a number of Martello towers on the southern coast which are
useless for military purposes. A band of some dozen “bhoys,” headed by
a notorious Invincible, came out of Cork one summer evening and summoned
the garrison of one of these Martello towers. The garrison (an
elderly pensioner), who was at tea with his wife and children, wisely
surrendered at discretion; whereupon the patriots took possession of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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