Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
own way, probably for fair weather and plenty of fish, and let us hope
for brave and gentle hearts to meet whatever rough weather and short
commons may be in store for them by land or water, Then the procession
rose, and passed down the Rue d’Eglise, pausing at the corner of the
little market-place opposite a rude figure of the Madonna in a niche
over some pious doorway,
[Greek phrase]
and so out of sight. And the _bourgeois_ blew out the candles and took
away the chairs on which, while the halt lasted, they had been kneeling
from their shop windows, putting back the bathing dresses, and the shell
boxes, and other sea-side merchandise, while the whole non-shopkeeping
population, and the neighbours from Bruges, and the strangers who fill
the hotels and lodging-houses turned out upon the splendid sands and
on the Digue to enjoy their _fête_-day. In the afternoon the _corps de
musique_ of the communal schools of Bruges gave a gratuitous concert to
us all by the permission of the communal administration of that town,
as we bathed, or promenaded, or sipped coffee or liqueurs in the
broad verandahs of the _cafés_ which line the Digue. Gaily dressed
middle-class women (of upper classes, as we understand them, I see
none), in many-coloured garments and immense structures of false back
hair, such as these eyes have never before seen; a sprinkling of
Belgian officers in uniform, Russians, Frenchmen, Germans a few, and two
Anglo-Saxons, Englishmen I cannot say, for one is an American citizen
and the other your contributor, who compose the only English-speaking
males, so far as I can judge; groups of Flemish women of the people in
long black cloth cloaks, with large hoods lined with black satin, more
expensive probably, but not nearly so picturesque as the old red cloak
which thirty years ago was the almost universal Sunday dress of women in
Wiltshire, Berkshire, and other Western counties; little old-fashioned
girls in nice mob caps, and the fishermen in excellent blue broad-cloth
jackets and trousers, and well-blacked shoes or boots, instead of the
huge sabots of their daily life; in short, every soul, I suppose, in
Blankenberghe, from the Bourgmestre who sits on his throne, to the
donkey-boy who drives along his Neddy under a freight of children, at
half a franc an hour, whenever he can entice the small fry from the
superior attraction of engineering with the splendid sand, spends his
or her three or four hours on the Digue, enjoying whatever of the music,
gossip, coffee, beer, or other pastimes they are inclined to or can
afford; and in that whole crowd of pleasant holiday-making folk there is
not one single trace of poverty, not a starved face, not a naked foot,
not a ragged garment. It is the same on the week-days. The people,
notably the fishermen and _baigneurs_, dress roughly, but they have all
comfortable thick worsted stockings in their sabots, and their jerseys
and overalls are ample and satisfactory. Why is it that in nine places
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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