Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
Thus prepared, I was not surprised at being roused at five in the
morning by the clumping of sabots and clinking of hammers in the street
below--my room is a corner one, looking from two windows on the Rue
d’Eglise, the principal street of the place, and from the other two
on the Rue des Pecheurs, or “Visschurs’ Straet,” which runs across the
northern end of the Rue d’Eglise. A flight of broad steps here runs up
on to the Digue, or broad terrace fronting the sea, and at the foot of
these steps they were erecting a temporary altar, and over it a large
picture of fishermen hauling in nets full of monsters of the deep. They
had brought it from the parish church, and, as such pictures go, it was
by no means a bad one. Presently tricoloured flags began to appear from
the windows of most of the houses in both streets, and here and there
garlands of bright-coloured paper were hung across from one side to the
other. As the morning advanced the bells from the church and convent
called the simple folk to mass at short intervals, six, half-past seven,
nine, and grand mass at ten. The call seemed to be answered by more
people than we had fancied the town could have held. At eleven there
was to be a procession, and now miniature altars with lighted candles
appeared in many of the ground-floor windows, both of shops and private
houses; and the streets were strewed with rushes and diamond-shaped
pieces of coloured paper. Punctual to its time the head of the
procession came round the corner of “Visschurs’ Straet,” half a dozen
small boys ringing bells leading the way. Then came the beadledom of
Blankenberghe, in the shape of several imposing persons in municipal
uniform, then three little girls dressed in white, with bouquets, more
boys, including a diligent but not very skilful drummer, six or seven
other maidens in white, somewhat older than their predecessors, of whom
the centre one carried some ornament of tinsel and flowers. Then
came the heavy silk canopy, supported by four light poles carried by
acolytes, and surrounded by choristers, of whom the leader bore a
large silver censer, and under the canopy marched a shaven monk in
cream-coloured brocade satin, carrying the pyx, and a less gorgeously
attired brother with an open missal. Around the whole of the procession,
to protect it from the accompanying crowd, were a belt of bronzed
fishermen in their best clothes, some carrying staves, some hymn-books,
and almost all joining in the chant which was rolled out by the priest,
in a powerful bass with a kind of metallic ring in it, as they neared
the altar at the foot of the steps. Here the whole procession paused,
and the greater part knelt, while the priest put incense in the censer,
and made his obeisances and prayed in an unknown tongue, and the censer
boy swung his sweet-smelling smoke about, and the fishermen and their
wives and children prayed too, in their own tongue, I suppose, and their
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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