Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
Coming out on the Digue one night, soon after my arrival, I was brought
to a stand-still by the appearance of the sea. It was low water, so
that I was about 200 yards off, and at first I could scarcely believe
my eyes, which seemed to tell me that every breaker was a flood of pale
fire. I went down close to the water to confirm or disenchant myself,
and found it more beautiful the nearer I got. Of course one has seen the
ordinary phosphorescence of the sea in a hundred places, but this was
quite a different affair. The sand under one’s feet even was molten
silver. The scientific doctor says it is simply the effect of the
constant presence on this coast of great numbers of an animalcule which
can only be seen through a microscope, called the _Noctiluca miliaris_.
It looked on that evening as if huge fiery serpents were constantly
rising and dashing along. People here say that they have it always, but
this is certainly not so. On several other evenings the breaking waves
were slightly luminous, but scarcely enough to attract attention. If you
could only make sure of seeing sea and shore ablaze as it was on
that particular night, you ought at once, sir, to pack traps and off,
notwithstanding these abominably high winds. I cannot help thinking
that, besides a monster gathering--probably a Reform League meeting--of
the Noctiluca miliaris, there must have been something very unusual in
the atmosphere on that particular night. It was a kind of “eldritch”
night, in which you felt as if you had got into the atmosphere of
Tennyson’s _Morte d’Arthur_, and a great hand might come up out of the
water without giving you a start. There was light right up in the
sky above one’s head, a succession of half luminous rain clouds were
drifting rapidly across at a very low elevation from the northwest, not
fifty yards high, as it seemed, while the smoke of my cigar floated
away slowly almost in the opposite direction. Luckily, sir, my American
friend was with me on the night in question, to whom I can appeal as
to the truth of my facts, and we had had nothing but one bottle of
very moderately strong _vin ordinaire_ at the _table d’hote_. If your
scientific readers say that the thing is impossible, I can only answer
that so it was.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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