Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
Events have been crowding us during the last thirty-six hours--bless
me, I mean the last sixty hours--I had positively written Tuesday
instead of Wednesday at the top of this. I let my watch run down on the
_Peruvian_, as it was too provoking to have to put it back thirty-five
minutes every morning. Since then time has gone all whiz! however, I
shall pick up the time now and get to my bearings, at least I shall try.
Well, all Sunday afternoon we ran up the glorious St. Lawrence, past
the mouths of what we should call big rivers, past the Canadian
watering-places, past one long straggling village except where the hills
are too steep or the soil absolutely barren. The view is not unlike many
Scotch ones, substituting scrub or stunted forest for heather. This of
course is a great disadvantage in a picturesque point of view, but it is
more than compensated by the great river. I am very glad I came to the
new world up the St. Lawrence. Nothing could have brought the startling
contrast of the old and new world so vividly home to me as this steaming
literally day after day up the stream, and finding it still at 700 miles
from the mouth two miles broad, with anchorage for the largest ships
that float. We went the round of the ship with the Captain after dinner,
to see the wonderful detail of the storerooms, and the huge fire-system
which goes glowing on through all the voyage. The sight of the
twenty-five great furnaces glowing, and consuming fifty-two tons of coal
a day, quite scared several of the ladies, who seemed to think that the
Peruvian was flying, I should say sailing, presumptuously in the face
of Providence not to have caught fire during the voyage. Luckily we were
within a few hours of port, so their anxiety was not of long duration.
I went to bed for the last time in my crib on the top of the drawers,
leaving word for the quartermaster to call me when we were getting near
Quebec. Accordingly I was roused at about three from one of the sleeps
without a turn even (by reason that there is no room to turn) which one
gets on board ship, and scuffled up on deck in my trousers and fur coat
to find myself in the most perfect moonlight rounding the last point
below Quebec. Then up went three rockets, and as we slacked our speed
at the side of the wharf right opposite the citadel, two guns were fired
and the voyage of the Peruvian was over. My packing was all done, so
while the vessel was being unladen I went quietly to bed again and slept
for another two or three hours amid all the din. Between six and seven
I turned out again and had a good breakfast on board, after which came
leave-takings, and then those of us who were not going on by train and
were ready to start, went on board a little tug ferry-boat and were
paddled across to Quebec. I have sent a small map to show you how the
land lies. Our ferry-boat took us over from Port Levi to the quay just
under the Citadel along the line I have dotted, and we at once chartered
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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