Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
the Queen wired him every day while he was there. Early next morning
S------,
Miss A------, I, and R------ were off by rail to a station ten or twelve
miles up the river, where we waited till the Montreal market-boat came
down and picked us up to shoot the rapids. We had a very pleasant run
to Quebec, and the shooting the rapids is very interesting, but neither
dangerous nor even exciting. The river widens out perhaps to two and a
half miles in width, and for some mile or mile and a half breaks into
these rapids, which boil and rush along at a great pace, and in quite a
little boat would no doubt keep the steerer and oarsmen on the stretch.
The approach to Montreal under the great Victoria Bridge, two miles
long, is very noble. We got back to breakfast at ten, and afterwards
went up the mountain at the back of the town, but the haze from the
burning forest quite spoiled the view. The carriage is announced, so I
must close.
Montreal, 20th August 1870.
I hurried up my letters yesterday, so as to bring my journal down to
the day I was writing on, fearing lest otherwise I should never catch
the thread again. I doubt whether I told you anything about this very
fine city, in the suburbs of which we are stopping, and which we leave
to-day. Well, I scarcely know how to begin to give you an idea of it. It
isn’t the least like an English or indeed any European town, the reason
being, I take it, that it has been built with the necessity of meeting
extremes of heat and cold, which we never get. Except in the heart of
the city, where the great business streets are, there are trees along
the sides of all the thoroughfares--maples, which give real shade, and
are in many places indeed too thick, and too near the houses for comfort
I should say--as near as the plane-tree was to our drawing-room window
at 33. This arrangement makes walking about very pleasant to me, even
when the thermometer stands at 90° in the shade as it did yesterday.
Then instead of a stone foot-pavement you have almost everywhere boards,
timber being the most plentiful production of the country. Walking along
the boards in the morning you see at every door a great lump of ice,
twenty pounds weight or so, lying there for the maid to take in when
she comes out to clean. This is supplied by the ice merchants for a
few shillings a year. The houses are square, built generally of a fine
limestone found all over the island (Montreal is an island thirty-six
miles long by nine wide), and have all green open shutter-blinds, which
they keep constantly shut all day, as in Greece, to keep out the heat,
and double windows to keep out the cold. The roofs are generally covered
with tin instead of tiles or slates, and all the church steeples, of
which there are a very large number, are tinned, as you remember we saw
them in parts of Austria and Hungary. There are magnificent stores of
dry goods, groceries, etc., but scarcely any shops in our sense. No
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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