Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
Well, to continue, on Saturday we broke up from Montreal, having I
think seen very thoroughly all the persons and things best worth seeing
in the place. Our host had arranged that we should go and spend Sunday
with Mr. Hugh Allan, the head of the family which has established the
line of mail steamers to Liverpool and Glasgow. He has been forty years
out here, and when he came Montreal had only 17,000 inhabitants, now it
has 150,000; there was scarcely water for a 200 ton ship to lie at the
wharf, now you can see steamers of 2000 tons and upwards always there.
Hugh Allan is evidently a very rich man now. He has a big house on the
mountain behind Montreal, and this place where I am now writing from, on
Memphremagog Lake, which if you have a good map, you will find half
in Canada and half in the New England state of Vermont. It is a lovely
inland sea, about thirty-five miles long and varying from one to three
miles broad. Mr. Allan’s house, where he entertained Prince Arthur in
the spring, stands on the top of a high well-wooded promontory, about
half-way up. It is a good, commodious, gentleman’s house, with deep
verandahs, thoroughly comfortable, but without pretence or show of any
kind. There is a large wooden out-building called the Hermitage, about
one hundred yards off, divided entirely into bedrooms, so that there is
room for lots of guests besides the family, seven or eight of whom are
here. In another building there is an American bowling-alley, and an
excellent croquet ground before the house. Mr. Allan keeps a nice steam
yacht, which runs about the lake daily with any one who likes to go, and
there are half a dozen rowing boats, so time need not hang heavily on
the most restless hands. I accepted the invitation, as a few days at
Memphremagog is evidently considered the thing to do by all Canadians,
and the last twenty miles or so of the railway to Newport (Vermont), the
place at the foot of the lake at which you embark, has only just been
finished, right through the forest, so that it was a good chance of
seeing the beginnings of colonial life in the bush. And I am very glad
that I did come, for certainly if the journey (120 miles altogether) had
been planned for the purpose, it couldn’t have been more interesting.
After leaving Montreal we travelled I should say for from thirty to
forty miles through reclaimed country, dotted with French villages and
the homesteads of well-to-do farmers. Then we gradually slipped into
half-cleared woods, and then into virgin forest. Presently we came
across a great block of the forest on fire, but in broad daylight the
sight is not the least grand, though unpleasant from the smoke, and
melancholy from the waste and mischief which the fires do. I think I
told you in my last that the forests about Ottawa, the capital of the
Dominion, were on fire last week. The fire became so serious that great
fears were entertained for the town, the militia and volunteers were
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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