Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
A few blocks farther on along this same chief cross-artery of Berlin is
a famous “Tunnel” restaurant below the level of the sidewalk. If you
have been in the German capital during this century you have no doubt
passed it, though you probably took care not to enter. In 1919 it was
one of the chief rendezvous of lost souls. Girls of sixteen, already
_passées_, mingled with women of once refined instincts whom the war had
driven to the streets. Their male companions were chiefly “tough
characters,” some of them still in uniform, who might give you a
half-insolent, half-friendly greeting as you entered, but who displayed
little of that rowdyism so characteristic of their class in our own
country. Here no attention was paid to meatless days, and, though the
date was plainly written on the bill of fare, it offered, even on
Tuesdays and Fridays, several species of beef and veal and many kinds of
game—wild duck, marsh fowl, rabbit, mountain goat, and so on, all
evidently the real article. The servings were more than generous, the
potatoes almost too plentiful. The menu asserted that “Meat, bread, and
potatoes were served only against tickets,” but for the payment of an
extra twenty-five pfennigs the lack of these was overlooked, except in
the case of bread. A small glass of some sickly-sweetish stuff called
beer cost the same amount; in the more reputable establishments of the
capital the average price for a beverage little better was about four
times that. Five marks sufficed to settle the bill, after the most
nearly satisfying meal I had so far found in Berlin. Here 15 per cent.
was reckoned in for service. Evidently the waiters had scorned a mere 10
per cent. in so low-priced a resort.
While I ate, an old woman wandered in, peddling some sort of useless
trinkets. She was chalky in color and emaciated to the last degree,
staggering along under her basket as if it had been an iron chest.
Several of the habitués got rid of her with a pewter coin. I happened to
have no change and gave her instead a few bread-tickets. The result was
not exactly what I had expected. So great was her gratitude for so
extraordinary a gift, beside which mere money seemed of little or no
interest, that she huddled over my table all the rest of the evening.
Before the war she had been the wife of a shopkeeper in Charlottenburg.
Her husband and both her sons had died in France. Business had dwindled
away for lack of both demand and supply until she had been dispossessed,
and for nearly two years she had been wandering the night streets of
Berlin with her basket. Her story was that of thousands in the larger
cities of Germany.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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