Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
Memories of France had suggested the possible wisdom of reaching the
station well before train-time. I might, to be sure, have purchased my
ticket in leisurely comfort at the Adlon, but for once I proposed to
take pot-luck with the rank and file. First-hand information is always
much more satisfactory than hearsay or the dilettante observation of the
mere spectator—once the bruises of the experience have disappeared. The
first glimpse of the station interior all but wrecked my resolution.
Early as I was, there were already several hundred would-be travelers
before me. From both ticket-windows lines four deep of disheveled
Germans of both sexes and all ages curved away into the farther ends of
the station wings. Boy soldiers with fixed bayonets paraded the edges of
the columns, attempting languidly and not always successfully to prevent
selfish new-comers from “butting in” out of their turn. I attached
myself to the end of the queue that seemed by a few inches the shorter.
In less than a minute I was jammed into a throng that quickly stretched
in S-shape back into the central hall of the station.
We moved steadily but almost imperceptibly forward, shuffling our feet
an inch at a time. The majority of my companions in discomfort were
plainly city people of the poorer classes, bound short distances into
the country on foraging expeditions. They bore every species of
receptacle in which to carry away their possible spoils—hand-bags,
hampers, baskets, grain-sacks, knapsacks, even buckets and toy wagons.
In most cases there were two or three of these to the person, and as no
one dreamed of risking the precious things out of his own possession,
the struggle forward suggested the writhing of a miscellaneous
scrap-heap. Women were in the majority—sallow, bony-faced creatures in
patched and faded garments that hung about their emaciated forms as from
hat-racks. The men were little less miserable of aspect, their
deep-sunk, watery eyes testifying to long malnutrition; the children who
now and then shrilled protests at being trodden underfoot were gaunt and
colorless as corpses. Not that healthy individuals were lacking, but
they were just that—individuals, in a throng which as a whole was
patently weak and anemic. The evidence of the scarcity of soap was all
but overpowering. Seven women and at least three children either fainted
or toppled over from fatigue during the two hours in which we moved a
few yards forward, and they were buffeted out of the line with what
seemed to be the malicious joy of their competitors behind. I found my
own head swimming long before I had succeeded in turning the corner that
cut off our view of the pandemonium at the ticket-window.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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