Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
Several rambles in and about Schwerin only confirmed the impressions I
had already formed—that the region was hopelessly conservative and that
it had really seriously suffered from the war and the blockade. On the
surface there was often no great change to be seen; but scratch beneath
it anywhere and a host of social skeletons was sure to come to light.
Even the famous old _Schwerinerschloss_, perhaps the most splendid
castle in Germany, showed both this conservatism and the distress of the
past years. The repairs it was undergoing after a recent fire had ceased
abruptly with the flight of the reigning family of Mechlenburg, but the
marks of something more serious than the conflagration showed in its
seedy outward appearance. Yet not a chair had been disturbed within it,
for all the revolution, and guards stationed about it by the Soldiers’
Council protected it as zealously as if they, too, were waiting for “our
princes” to come back again. Almost the only sign of the new order of
things was the sight of a score or more of discharged soldiers calmly
fishing in the great _Schwerinersee_ about the castle, a crime that
would have met with summary vengeance in the old ducal days.
Rumor having it that the peace terms were to be published that
afternoon, I hastily took train one morning back to Berlin, that I might
be in the heart of the uproar they were expected to arouse. At the
frontier of Mechlenburg soldiers of the late dukedom went carefully
through passengers’ baggage in search of food, particularly eggs, of
which a local ordinance forbade the exportation. The quest seemed to be
thorough and I saw no tips passed, but there was considerable successful
smuggling, which came to light as soon as the train was well under way
again. A well-dressed merchant beside me boastfully displayed a
twenty-mark sausage in the bottom of his innocent-looking hand-bag, and
his neighbors, not to be outdone in proof of cleverness, showed their
caches of edibles laboriously concealed in brief-cases, hat-boxes, and
laundry-bags.
“The peasants have grown absolutely shameless,” it was agreed. “They
have the audacity to demand a mark or more for a single egg, and twenty
for a chicken”—in other words, the rascals had turned upon the bourgeois
some of his own favorite tricks, taking advantage of conditions which
these same merchants would have considered legitimate sources of profit
in their own business. Wrath against the “conscienceless” countrymen was
unlimited, but no one thought of shaming the smugglers for their
cheating.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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