Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
The city itself was as astonishingly placid in the midst of what an
outsider would have supposed to be exciting times. Being not only in a
state of siege, but having just heard that it was soon to transfer its
allegiance to another race, one was justified in expecting a town as
large as Trenton or San Antonio to show at least some ripples on its
surface. I looked for them in vain. It was Sunday, just the day for
popular demonstrations in Germany, yet not only was there no sign
whatever of rejoicing among the Polish population, but nothing even
suggesting the uprising of protest among the German residents which had
been so loudly prophesied. The place resembled some New England factory
town on the same day of the week. Groups of Polish-looking young men,
somewhat uncomfortable and stiff in their Sunday best, lounged on the
street-corners, ogling the plump Polish girls on their way to church.
Strollers seemed interested only in keeping to the shaded side of the
street, youths and children only in their games. Tramways rumbled slowly
along as usual—and, before I forget it, their female conductors wore
breeches; such shops as were habitually open on Sunday seemed to be
doing their customary amount of business. The whole town was as staid,
heavy, and unenthusiastic as the German character.
In the face of a wide divergence of opinion among its own inhabitants it
was hard for a stranger to decide which of the two races predominated in
Bromberg. The Germans asserted that only 40 per cent. of the population
were Poles, and that many of them preferred to see things remain as they
were. The Poles defied any one to find more than twenty Germans among
every hundred inhabitants, or to point out a single member of their race
who sincerely wished to keep his allegiance to the Fatherland. Street
and shop signs were nearly all in German, but that may have been due to
legal requirement. The rank and file of the populace had a Polish look,
yet they seemed to speak German by choice. Moreover, there is but scant
difference of appearance between Teutons and Poles, particularly when
they have lived their entire lives together in the same environment. On
the wall of a church I dropped into during morning service there were
five columns of names, forty-five each, of the men who had
“Patriotically sacrificed their lives for a grateful Fatherland.” At
least one half of them ended in “ski,” and in one column alone I counted
thirty unquestionably Polish names. But then, it was a Catholic church,
so there you are again. Perhaps the most unbiased testimony of all was
the fact that the little children playing in the park virtually all
spoke Polish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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