Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
fourth-class coach on market-day. The throng it disgorged at Munich was
sufficient to have peopled a town of very respectable size.
I had made the sudden leap to the southern end of the Empire as a
starting-point of a tramp across it instead of reversing the process in
the hope that here at last I should find “something doing,” some
remnants of excitement. Munich had just been snatched from the hands of
the Sparticists—or the Bolshevists; the distinction between the two
dreaded groups is not very clear in the German mind. Leviné, the
half-mad Russian Jew who was reputed the organizing spirit of the
revolt, was still dodging from one hiding-place to another somewhere in
the vicinity. To read the breathless cables to the foreign press was to
fancy Munich under a constant hail of shrapnel and machine-gun bullets.
Ours was the second passenger-train that had ventured into the city in
weeks. All Bavaria was blazing with huge posters, often blood-red in
color, headed by the dread word “STANDRECHT” in letters to be seen a
hundred yards away, proclaiming martial law and threatening sudden and
dire fate to any one who strayed from the straight and narrow path of
absolute submission to the “government-faithful” troops that were still
pouring in from the north. Surely here, if anywhere, was a chance for a
wandering American to get into trouble.
Like so many dreadful things, however, martial law and beleaguered
cities prove more terrible at a distance than on the spot. True, a group
of soldiers in full fighting equipment held the station exit; but their
only act of belligerency toward the invading throng was to hand each of
us a red slip granting permission to walk the streets until two in the
morning. A bedraggled hotel directly across the way spared me that
necessity. The information its registry-pad required of guests was more
exacting than its interior aspect, but neither here nor at the station
exit was there any demand for proof of identity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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