Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
The man had set out that morning from Munich to deliver the horses to a
purchaser a hundred miles away in the Bavarian hills. Poor as they were,
the animals had been sold for seven thousand marks. A first-class horse
was worth six to ten thousand nowadays, he asserted. Times had indeed
changed. A few years ago only an insane man would have paid as many
hundred. It was a hot day for the middle of May, a quick change from the
long, unusual cold spell. The crops would suffer. He didn’t mind
walking, if only beer were not so expensive when one got thirsty. Having
exhausted his scant mental reservoir with these and a few as commonplace
remarks, he fell into the rear conversationally as well as physically,
and abandoned the field to his sharp-witted spouse.
She, having more than her share of all too solid flesh to carry, had
left the afternoon before and passed the night at a wayside inn. It was
not that she was fond of such excursions nor that she could not trust
her husband away from home. While he was delivering the horses she would
go “hamstering,” buying up a ruck-sackful of food among the peasants of
that region, if any could be coaxed out of them, and they would return
by train. Fortunately, fourth-class was still cheap. Before the war she
had never dreamed of going anything but second. I broke my usual rule of
the road and mentioned my scribbling proclivities. A moment later we
were deeply engrossed in a discussion of German novelists and
dramatists. The placid, bourgeois-looking _Frau_ had read everything of
importance her literary fellow-countrymen had produced; she was by no
means ignorant of the best things in that line in the outside world.
Thrown into the crucible of her forceful mentality, the characters of
fiction had emerged as far more living beings than the men and women who
passed us now and then on the road—immensely more so, it was evident,
though she did not say so, than the husband who plodded behind us,
frankly admitting by his very attitude that we had entered waters
hopelessly beyond his depth. Of all the restrictions the war had
brought, none had struck her quite so directly as the decrease in
quality and number of the plays at Munich’s municipal theater. Luckily
they were now improving. But she always had to go alone. _He_—with a
toss of her head to the rear—didn’t care for anything but the movies. He
laughed himself sick over those. As to opera, her greatest pleasure in
life, he hadn’t the faintest conception of what it was all about. He
liked American ragtime (she pronounced it “rhakteam”), however. Still,
America had opera also, _nicht wahr_? Had not many of Germany’s best
singers gone to my country? There was Slézak, for instance, and
Schumann-Heink and Farrar....
I might have questioned her notion of the nationality of some of the
names she mentioned, but what did it matter?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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