Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
Rumor had it that any stranger stopping overnight in a German village
courted trouble if he neglected to report his presence to the
Bürgermeister, as he is expected to do to the police in the cities. I
had been omitting the latter formality on the strength of my
Wilhelmstrasse pass. These literal countrymen, however, might not see
the matter in the same light. Moreover, being probably the only stranger
spending the night in Hohenkammer, my presence was certain to be common
knowledge an hour after my arrival. I decided to forestall pertinent
inquiries by taking the lead in making them.
The building a few yards down the highway bearing the placard “Wohnung
des Bürgermeisters” was a simple, one-story, whitewashed cottage,
possibly the least imposing dwelling in town. These village rulers,
being chosen by popular vote within the community, are apt to be its
least pompous citizens, both because the latter do not care to accept an
unpaid office and because the “plain people” hold the voting majority.
The woman who tried in vain to silence a howling child and a barking dog
before she came to the door in answer to my knock was just a shade
better than the servant class. The husband she summoned at my request
was a peasant slightly above the general level.
He took his time in coming and greeted me coldly, a trifle sharply. One
felt the German official in his attitude, with its scorn for the mere
petitioner, the law’s underling, the subject class. Had I reported my
arrival in town in the regulation manner, he would have kept that
attitude. I should have been treated as something between a mild
criminal and an unimportant citizen whom the law had required to submit
himself to the Bürgermeister’s good pleasure. Instead, I assumed the
upper caste myself. I drew forth a visiting-card and handed it to him
with a regal gesture, at the same time addressing him in my most
haughty, university-circles German. He glanced at my unapologetic
countenance, stared at the card, then back into my stern face, his
official manner oozing slowly but steadily away, like the rotundity of a
lightly punctured tire. By the time I began to speak again he had shrunk
to his natural place in society, that of a simple, hard-working peasant
whom chance had given an official standing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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