Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
These village inns are all of the same type. A quaint and placid
building with the mellowed atmosphere that comes with respectable old
age, usually of two stories, always with an exceedingly steep roof from
which peer a few dormer-windows, like wondering urchins perched in some
place of vantage, is pierced through the center by a long, low, cool
passageway that leads to the family garden or back yard. Just inside the
street entrance this hallway is flanked by two doors, on one of which,
in old Gothic letters, is the word “Gastzimmer” (guest-room). Thus the
new-comer is spared the embarrassment of bursting in upon the intimacies
of the family circle that would result from his entering the opposite
door. The world has few public places as homelike as the cool and cozy
room to which the placarded door gives admittance. Unpainted wooden
tables, polished gleaming white with sand and water, fill the room
without any suggestion of crowding. At one side sits a porcelain stove,
square-faced and high, its surface broken into small square plaques, the
whole shining intensely with its blue, blue-gray, or greenish tint.
Beyond this, in a corner, a tall, old-time clock with weights tick-tacks
with the dignified, placid serenity of quiet old age. Three or four
pairs of antlers protrude from the walls; several small mirrors, and a
number of framed pictures, most of them painful to the artistic sense
that has reached the first stage of development, break the soothingly
tinted surfaces between them. In the corner behind the door is a small
glass-faced cupboard in which hang the long, hand-decorated porcelain
pipes of the local smoking-club, each with the name of its owner
stenciled upon it. Far to the rear sits a middle-aged phonograph with
the contrite yet defiant air of a recent comer who realizes himself
rather out of place and not over-popular in the conservative old society
upon which he has forced himself. Deep window embrasures, gay with
flowers in dull-red pots, hung with snowy little lace curtains, are
backed by even more immaculate glass, in small squares. This bulges
outwardly in a way to admit a maximum of light, yet is quite
impenetrable from the outside, from where it merely throws back into the
face of the would-be observer his own reflection. In the afternoon a
powerfully built young woman, barefoot or shod only in low slippers, is
almost certain to be found ironing at one of the tables. At the others
sit a guest or two, their heavy glass or stone mugs before them. No
fowls, dogs, or other domestic nuisances are permitted to enter, though
the placid, Bavarian family cat is almost sure to look each new-comer
over with a more or less disapproving air from her place of vantage
toward the rear. It would take sharp eyes indeed to detect a fleck of
dust, a beer stain, or the tiniest cobweb anywhere in the room.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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