Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
For a long time I trod the carpet-like towpath without meeting or
overtaking any fellow-traveler. It was as if I had discovered some
unknown and perfect route of my own. The mirror surface of the canal
beside me pictured my movements far more perfectly than any cinema film,
reproducing every slightest tint and color. Now and again I halted to
stretch out on the grassy slope at the edge of the water, in the
all-bathing sunshine. Snow-white cherry-trees were slowly, regretfully
shedding their blossoms, flecking the ground and here and there the edge
of the canal with their cast-off petals. Bright-pink apple-trees, just
coming into full bloom, were humming with myriad bees. A few birds sang
gaily, yet a bit drowsily, falling wholly silent now and then, as if
awed by nature’s loveliness. A weather-browned woman, her head covered
with a clean white kerchief with strands of apple-blossom pink in it,
knelt at the edge of the waterway a bit farther on, cutting the long
grass with a little curved sickle, her every motion, too, caught by the
mirroring canal. Along the highway below tramped others of her species,
bearing to town on their backs the green fodder similarly gathered, in
long cone-shaped baskets or wrapped in a large cloth. One had heaped her
basket high with bright-yellow mustard, splashing the whitish roadway as
with a splotch of paint. Vehicles there were none, except the little
handcarts drawn by barefoot women or children, and now and then a man
sometimes similarly unshod. Oxen reddish against green meadows or
whitish against the red soil were standing idle, knee-deep in grass or
slowly plowing the gently rolling fields. Farther off, clumps of cattle
ranging from dark brown to faint yellow speckled the rounded hillocks.
Fields white with daisies, yellow with buttercups, lilac with some other
species of small flower, vied with one another in beautifying the more
distant landscape. Still farther off, the world was mottled with clumps
of forest, in which mingled the black evergreen of perennial foliage
with the light green of new leaves. An owl or some member of his family
hooted contentedly from the nearest woods. Modest little houses, with
sharp, very-old-red roofs and whitewashed walls dulled by years of
weather, stood in clusters of varying size on the sun-flooded hillsides.
Nothing in the velvety, gentle scene, so different from the surly
landscape of factory districts, suggested war, except now and again the
red-banded caps of the men. The more wonder came upon me that these
slow, simple country people with their never-failing greetings and their
entire lack of warlike manner could have formed a part of the most
militaristic nation in history.
XIV
“FOOD WEASELS”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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