Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
A young man at an adjacent table took exception to some accusation
against America by the cantankerous old merchant, and joined in the
conversation. From that moment forth I was not once called upon to
defend my country’s actions; our new companion did so far more
effectively than I could possibly have done. He was professor of
philosophy in the ancient University of Altdorf, and his power of
viewing a question from both sides, with absolute impartiality, without
the faintest glow of personal feeling, attained the realms of the
supernatural. During the entire war he had been an officer at the front,
having returned to his academic duties within a month after the signing
of the armistice. As women are frequently more rabid than men in their
hatred of a warring enemy, so are the men who have taken the least
active part in the conflict commonly the more furious. One can often
recognize almost at a glance the real soldier—not the parader in uniform
at the rear, but him who has seen actual warfare; he is wiser and less
fanatical, he is more apt to realize that his enemy, too, had something
to fight for, that every war in history has had some right on both
sides.
When we exchanged names I found that the professor was more familiar
than I with a tale I once wrote of a journey around the world,
republished in his own tongue. The discovery led us into discussions
that lasted late into the evening. In the morning he conducted me
through the venerable seat of learning to which he was attached. It had
suffered much from the war, not merely financially, but in the loss of
fully two-thirds of its faculty and students. Three-fourths of them had
returned now, but they had not brought with them the pre-war atmosphere.
He detected an impatience with academic pursuits, a superficiality that
had never before been known in German universities. Particularly the
youths who had served as officers during the war submitted themselves
with great difficulty to the discipline of the class-room. The chief
“sight” of the institution was an underground cell in which the
afterward famous Wallenstein was once confined. In his youth the general
attended the university for a year, the last one of the sixteenth
century. His studies, however, had been almost entirely confined to the
attractions of the _Gasthäuser_ and the charms of the fair maidens of
the surrounding villages. The attempt one day to enliven academic
proceedings with an alcoholic exhilaration, of which he was not even the
legal possessor financially, brought him to the sobering depths of the
iron-barred cellar and eventually to expulsion. But alas for diligence
and sobriety! While the self-denying grinds of his day have sunk
centuries deep into oblivion, the name of Wallenstein is emblazoned in
letters a meter high across the façade of the steep-gabled dwelling in
which he recuperated during the useless daylight hours from his nightly
lucubrations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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