Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
He was on the point of obeying this summons when I drew forth my
impressive papers and stated my case. The mayor and his assistant
quickly lost their supercilious attitude. The former even gave my
demands precedence over those of his wife. He slapped a hat on his head
and, leaving two or three fellow-citizens standing uncovered where the
new turn of events had found them, set out with me for the center of
town. There he confirmed the assertions of the “prevaricators” by
marching unhesitatingly into the same _Gasthaus_, to “The Black Bear”
that had twice turned me away. Bidding me take seat at a table, he
disappeared into the kitchen. Several moments later he returned, smiling
encouragingly, and sat down opposite me with the information that
“everything had been arranged.” Behind him came the landlady who had so
forcibly denied the existence of food on her premises a half-hour
before, smirking hospitality now and bearing in either hand a mug of
beer. Before we had emptied these she set before me a heaping plateful
of steaming potatoes, boiled in their jackets, enough cold ham to have
satisfied even a tramp’s appetite several times over, and a loaf of good
peasant’s bread of the size and shape of a grindstone.
The Bürgermeister remained with me to the end of his second mug of beer,
declining to eat for reason of the supper that was awaiting him at home,
but answering my questions with the over-courteous deliberation that
befitted the official part I was playing. When he left, the _Wirt_
seemed to feel it his duty to give as constant attention as possible to
so important a guest. He sat down in the vacated chair opposite and,
except when his beer-serving duties required him to absent himself
momentarily, remained there all the evening. He was of the heavy, stolid
type of most of his class, a peasant by day and the chief assistant of
his inn-keeping spouse during the evening. For fully a half-hour he
stared at me unbrokenly, watching my every slightest movement as an
inventor might the actions of his latest contraption. A group of his
fellow-townsmen, sipping their beer at another table, kept similar
vigil, never once taking their eyes off me, uttering not a sound,
sitting as motionless as the old stone statues they somehow resembled,
except now and then to raise their mugs to their lips and set them
noiselessly down again. The rather slatternly spouse and her brood of
unkempt urchins surrounded still another table, eying me as fixedly as
the rest. I attempted several times to break the ice, with no other
success than to evoke a guttural monosyllable from the staring landlord.
The entire assembly seemed to be _dumm_ beyond recovery, to be stupidity
personified. Unable to force oneself upon them, one could only sit and
wonder what was taking place inside their thick skulls. Their vacant
faces gave not an inkling of thought. Whenever I exploded a question in
the oppressive silence the _Wirt_ answered it like a school-boy reciting
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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