Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
That the struggle had been won was evident from the quantities of ham,
beef, potatoes, and bread which his wife served her habitual clients in
the course of the evening. She seemed to have food hidden away in every
nook and cranny of the house, like a miser his gold, and acknowledged
its existence with the canniness of the South American Indian. As she
lighted me to a comfortable bedchamber above, as clean as the lower
story was disorderly, she remarked, apologetically:
“If I had known in what purpose you were here I would not have sent you
away when you first came. But another American food commissioner was in
Velden just two days ago, a major who has his headquarters in Nürnberg.
He came with a German captain, and they went fishing on the river.”
In the morning she served me real coffee, with milk and white loaf
sugar, two eggs, appealingly fresh, bread and butter, and an excellent
cake—and her bill for everything, including the lodging, was six marks.
In Berlin or Munich the food alone, had it been attainable, would have
cost thirty to forty marks. Plainly it was advantageous to Velden to
pose as suffering from food scarcity.
The same species of selfishness was in evidence in the region round
about. Not one of the several villages tucked away in the great
evergreen forests of the “Fränkische Schweitz” through which my route
wound that day would exchange foodstuffs of any species for mere money.
When noon lay so far behind me that I was tempted to use physical force
to satisfy my appetite, I entered the crude _Gasthaus_ of a little
woodcutters’ hamlet. A family of nearly a dozen sat at a table occupying
half the room, wolfing a dinner that gave little evidence of war-time
scarcity. Here, too, there was an abundance of meat, potatoes, bread,
and several other appetizing things. But strangers were welcome only to
beer. Could one live on that, there would never be any excuse for going
hungry in Bavaria. When I asked for food also the coarse-featured,
bedraggled female who had filled my mug snarled like a dog over a bone
and sat down with her family again, heaping her plate high with a
steaming stew. I persisted, and she rose at last with a growl and served
me a bowl of some kind of oatmeal gruel, liquid with milk. For this she
demanded ten pfennigs, or nearly three-fourths of a cent. But if it was
cheap, nothing could induce her to sell more of it. My loudest appeals
for a second helping, for anything else, even for a slice of the immense
loaf of bread from which each member of the gorging family slashed
himself a generous portion at frequent intervals, were treated with the
scornful silence with which the police sergeant might ignore the shouts
of a drunken prisoner.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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