Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
A broad highway offering several fine vistas brought me at noon to
Bayreuth. The street that led me to the central square was called
Wagnerstrasse and passed directly by the last home of the famous
composer. As soon as a frock-tailed hotel force had ministered to my
immediate necessities I strolled back to visit the place. Somewhere I
had picked up the impression that it had been turned into a museum, like
the former residences of Goethe and Schiller. Nearly a year before, I
recalled the Paris papers had announced the death of Frau Wagner, and
certainly the Germans would not allow the home of their great musician
to fall into other hands. I turned in at the tall grilled gate, fastened
only with a latch, and sauntered along the broad driveway, shaded by
magnificent trees that half hid the wide house at the end of it. This
was a two-story building in reddish-yellow brick, rectangular of façade
under its almost flat roof, the door gained by a balustraded stone
veranda without covering and with steps at either end. A large bust, not
of the composer, as I had fancied at a distance, but of his royal
companion, Ludwig, stared down the driveway at my approach. As I paused
to look at this the only person in sight glanced up at me with what
seemed an air between anger and surprise. He was an aged gardener,
shriveled in form and face, who was engaged in watering the masses of
flowers of many species that surrounded the house on every side.
Something in his manner, as he set down his watering-pot and shuffled
toward me, plus the absence of any of the outward signs of a public
place of pilgrimage, suggested that I was in the wrong pew.
“Does some one _live_ here?” I hazarded, lamely.
“Certainly, the Wagner family,” he replied, sharply, glaring at me under
bushy eyebrows.
“But—er—Frau Wagner being dead, I thought....”
“Frau Wagner is as alive as you or I,” he retorted, staring as if he
suspected me of being some harmless species of maniac.
“Frau Cosima Wagner, wife of the composer?” I persisted, smiling at what
seemed to be the forgetfulness of an old man; “why, my dear fellow, her
death was in the papers a year ago....”
“_Frau Cosima Wagner, jawohl, mein Herr_,” he retorted. “As I cut
flowers for her room every morning and see her every afternoon, I
suppose I know as much about it as the papers. It was quite another Frau
Wagner who died last year; and the fool newspapers seldom know what they
are talking about, anyway. Then there is....”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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