Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
He had the back entrance to the Wagner estate unlocked when I reached it
and led the way around a mass of flowering bushes to the plain flat slab
of marble without inscription under which the composer lies buried in
his own back yard. But for the house fifty yards away it would have been
easy to imagine oneself in the depth of a forest. The old gardener
considered his fee earned when he had showed me the grave, and he
answered my questions with cold brevity. He had held his present
position for thirty-eight years. Of course he had known Herr Richard.
Hadn’t he seen and talked with him every day for many years? No, there
was nothing unusual about him. He was like any other rich man, except
that he was always making music. It was plain that the gardener thought
this a rather foolish hobby. He spoke of his former master with that
slight tinge of scorn, mingled with considerable pride at the importance
of his own position, which servants so often show in discussing
employers whom the world considers famous, and changed the subject as
soon as possible to the all-engrossing scarcity of food. Even Herr
Siegfried and his family suffered from that, he asserted. He was still
grumbling hungrily when he pocketed what pewter coins I had left and,
locking the gate, shuffled back to his watering-pots.
The outwardly ugly Wagner opera-house on a hillock at the farther end of
town was as dismal in its abandonment as most cheap structures become
that have stood five years unoccupied and unrepaired. There was nothing
to recall the famous singers and the international throngs from kings to
scrimping schoolma’ams from overseas, who had so often gathered here for
the annual Wagner festival. A few convalescing soldiers lounged under
the surrounding trees; from the graveled terrace one had an
all-embracing view of Bayreuth and the rolling hills about it. But only
a few twittering birds broke the silence of a spot that had so often
echoed with the strident strains of all the musical instruments known to
mankind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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