Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
We loafed on through the perfect early-summer morning, a soloist
striking up on voice and instrument now and then, the whole club joining
frequently in some old German song proposed by the blind leader, halting
here and there to sit in the shade of a grassy slope, pouring pellmell
every mile or two into a _Gasthaus_, where even the shy little girls
emptied their half-liter mugs of beer without an effort. One of the
ex-soldiers enlivened the stroll by giving me his unexpurgated opinion
of the Prussians. They “hogged” everything they could lay their hands
on, he grumbled. Prussian wounded sent to Bavaria had been fed like
princes; Bavarians who were so unfortunate as to be assigned to
hospitals in Prussia—he had suffered that misfortune himself—had been
treated like cattle and robbed even of the food sent them from home. He
“had no use for” _die verdammten Preussen_, from any viewpoint; it was
their “big men” who had started the war in the first place, but.... No,
indeed, Bavaria could not afford to separate from Prussia. She had no
coal of her own and she had no seaport. Business interests were too
closely linked together through all the Empire to make separation
possible. It would be cutting their own throats.
Toward noon we reached the village of Neudrossenfeld, where the _Verein_
had engaged for the day a rambling old country inn, with a spacious
dance-hall above an outdoor _Kegelbahn_ for those who bowled, and a
shady arbor overlooking a vast stretch of rolling summer landscape for
those who did not, in the garden at the rear. Other glee clubs, from
Kulmbach and another neighboring city, had occupied the other two
_Gasthäuser_ and every even semi-public establishment. The town
resounded from one end to the other with singing and playing, with
laughter and dancing, with the clatter of ninepins and the rattle of
table utensils. A lone stranger without glee-club standing would have
been forced to plod on, hungry and thirsty. I spent half the afternoon
in the shady arbor. Several of the girls were well worth looking at; the
music, not being over-ambitious, added just the needed touch to the
languid, sun-flooded day. One could not but be struck by the innocence
of these typically Bavarian pleasures. Not a suggestion of rowdyism,
none of the questionable antics of similar gatherings in some other
lands, marred the amusements of these childlike holiday-makers. They
were as gentle-mannered as the tones of the guitars, zithers, and
mandolins they thrummed so diligently, with never a rude word or act
even toward hangers-on like myself. Yet there was a bit less gaiety than
one would have expected. Even the youthful drifted now and then into
moods of sadness—or was it mere apathy due to their long lack of
abundant wholesome food?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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