Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
An hour later I was speeding toward Berlin on a fast express. I had
always found that a dash at the heart of things was apt to be surer than
a dilly-dallying about the outskirts. Once in the capital, I could lay
my plans on a sounder foundation than by setting out on my proposed
tramp so near the border. To be sure, I had not ventured to buy a ticket
to Berlin at a wicket surrounded by a dozen soldiers who had heard me
assert that I was going to Hamburg. But—Dame Fortune seeming to have
taken me under her wing for the day—a Dutch trainman with whom I fell
into conversation chanced to have such a ticket in his pocket, which he
was only too glad to sell. As a matter of fact, I doubt whether the open
purchase of the bit of cardboard would have aroused any comment, much
less created any difficulties. Looking back on it now from the pinnacle
of weeks of travel in all parts of the German Empire, by every possible
means of locomotion, that teapot tempest of passing the frontier seems
far more than ridiculous. It is possible that the combination of
circumstances made admittance—once gained—seem easier than it really is.
But I cannot shake off the impression that the difficulties were almost
wholly within my own disordered brain—disordered because of the wild
tales that had been dished out to us by the Allied press. It was, of
course, to the advantage of the correspondents fluttering about the
dovecote at the head of Unter den Linden to create the impression that
the only way to get into Germany was to cross the frontier on hands and
knees in the darkest hour of a dark night at the most swampy and
inaccessible spot, with a rabbit’s foot grasped firmly in one hand and
the last will and testament in the other. The _blague_ served at least
two purposes—perfectly legitimate purposes at that, from a professional
point of view—it made “bully good reading” at home, and it scared off
competition, in the form of other correspondents, whose timorous natures
precluded the possibility of attempting the perilous passage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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