Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
That Berlin was hungry was all too evident, so patent, in fact, that I
feel it my duty to set down in a place apart the gruesome details of
famine and warn the reader to peruse them only in the presence of a
full-course dinner. But the overcrowding was at first glance less
apparent. Indeed, a superficial glimpse of the heart of Prussianism
showed it surprisingly like what it had been a decade before. The great
outdoor essentials were virtually unaltered. Only as one amassed bit by
bit into a convincing whole the minor evidences of change, as an
experienced lawyer pieces together the scattered threads of
circumstantial proof, did one reach the conclusion that Berlin was no
longer what she used to be. Her great arteries of suburban railways, her
elevated and underground, pulsated regularly, without even that clogging
of circulation that threatened the civic health of her great
temperamental rival to the west. Her shops and business houses seemed,
except in one particular, well stocked and prosperous; her sources of
amusement were many and well patronized. Her street throngs certainly
were not shabby in appearance and they showed no outward signs of
leading a hampered existence. True, they were unusually
gaunt-featured—but here we are encroaching on ground to be explored
under more propitious alimentary circumstances.
Of the revolution, real or feigned, through which it had recently
passed, the city bore surprisingly few scars. Three or four government
buildings were pockmarked with bullet-holes that carried the mind back
to “election” days in the capitals of tropical America; over in
Alexanderplatz the bricks and stones flaunted a goodly number of
shrapnel and machine-gun wounds. But that was all, or almost all, the
proof of violence that remained. The palaces of the late Kaiser stood
like abandoned warehouses; the Reichstag building was cold and silent,
testifying to a change of venue for the government on trial, if not of
régime. Yet it could not, after all, have been much of a “revolution”
that had left unscathed those thirty-two immense and sometimes
potbellied images of the noble Hohenzollerns, elaborately carved in
stone, which still oppressed the stroller along the Sieges Allee in the
otherwise pleasant Tiergarten. The massive wooden Hindenburg at the end
of it, a veritable personification of brute strength from cropped head
to well-planted feet, stared down upon puny mankind as of yore, though,
to be sure, he looked rather neglected; the nailing had never been
completed and the rare visitors passed him by now without any attempt to
hammer home their homage. Farther on that other man of iron gazed away
across the esplanade as if he saw nothing in this temporary abandonment
of his principles to cause serious misgivings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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