Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
Perhaps the greatest surprise that Berlin had in store for me was the
complete safety which her recent enemies enjoyed there. With German
delegates to the Peace Conference closely guarded behind barbed wire in
Versailles, and German correspondents forbidden even to talk to the
incensed crowds that gathered along those barriers, it was astounding to
find that American and Allied officers and men, in full uniform,
wandered freely about the Prussian capital at all hours. Doughboys were
quite as much at home along Unter den Linden as if they had been
strolling down Main Street in Des Moines. Young Germans in iron hats
guarded the entrance to the princely Adlon, housing the various enemy
missions, but any one who chose passed freely in or out, whatever his
nationality, his business or lack thereof, or his garb. Olive drab
attracted no more attention in Berlin than it did in Coblenz. German
chauffeurs drove _poilus_ and their officers about the streets as
nonchalantly as if they had been taxi-drivers in Paris. To be sure, most
uniformed visitors stuck rather closely to the center of town, but that
was due either to false impressions of danger or to lack of
curiosity—and perhaps also to the dread of getting out of touch with
their own food-supply. For as a matter of experience they were fully as
safe in Berlin as in Paris or New York—possibly a trifle more so—they
seemed to run less risk of being separated, legally or forcibly, from
their possessions. The hair-raising tales which correspondents poured
out over the wires _via_ Copenhagen were chiefly instigated by their
clamoring editors and readers at home. Let a few random shots be fired
somewhere in the city and the scribes were at ease for another day—and
the world gasped once more at the bloody anarchy reigning in Berlin,
while the stodgy Berliner went on about his business, totally oblivious
of the battle that was supposed to be seething about him.
In January, 1919, a group of American officers entered one of the
principal restaurants of Berlin and ordered dinner. At that date our
olive drab was rare enough in the capital to attract general attention.
A civilian at a neighboring table, somewhat the worse for bottled
animosity, gave vent to his wrath at sight of the visitors. Having no
desire to precipitate a scene, they rose to leave. Several German
officers sprang to their feet and begged them to remain, assuring them
that the disturber would be silenced or ejected. The Americans declined
to stay, whereupon the ranking German apologized for the unseemly
conduct of an ill-bred fellow-countryman and invited the group to be his
guests there the following evening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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