Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
Peephole shows were not the least popular of the Berliner’s evening
amusements. His streets, however, were far freer of the painted stalkers
by night than those of Paris, and the outcasts less aggressive in their
tactics. Gambling, and with it the police corruption that seems to
batten best under the democratic form of government, was reported to be
growing apace, with new “clubs” springing up nightly. Under the monarchy
these were by no means lacking, but they were more “select,” more
exclusive—in other words, less democratic. Even the government had taken
on a Spanish characteristic in this respect and countenanced a public
lottery, ostensibly, at least, for the benefit of “sucklings.”
At the middle-class theaters the same rarely musical and never comic
inanities that hamper the advancement of histrionic art in other
countries still held sway, with perhaps an increasing tendency toward
the _risqué_. The crowd roared as of yore, munched its black-bread
sandwiches between the acts, and seemed for the moment highly satisfied
with life. In contrast there were always seats to be had at the
performances of literary merit and at the opera, though the war does not
seem to have subjected them to any special hardships. The investment of
a ticket at the house of song brought high interest—particularly to the
foreigner, for the best orchestra seats were still eight marks at
matinées and twelve in the evening, a mere sixty cents or a dollar at
the armistice rate of exchange. I remember with especial pleasure
excellent performances of “Eurydice” and of “Martha.” The audience was a
plain, bourgeois gathering, with evening dress as lacking as
“roughnecks.” In the foyer buffet, in contrast to Paris, prices were
exceedingly reasonable, but the most popular offerings, next to the
watery beer, were plates of potatoes, bologna, pickled fish, and
hard-boiled eggs, for, though I should not mention it here, the German
theater-goer of these days is as constantly munching as an Arab. In the
gorgeous Kaiser’s box sat one lone lieutenant and his wife, while a
cold-eyed old retainer in livery kept guard outside the locked door as
if he were still holding the place for his beloved emperor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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