Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
But I am getting far ahead of my story. Long before I began to peer
beneath the surface of Berlin I had to face the problem of legalizing
even my superficial existence there. On the very morning after my
arrival I hastened to grim-sounding Wilhelmstrasse, uncertain whether my
next move would be toward some dank underground dungeon or merely a
swift return to the Dutch border. The awe-inspiring Foreign Office
consisted of several adult school-boys and the bureaucrat-minded
underlings of the old régime. A Rhodes scholar, who spoke English
somewhat better than I, greeted my entrance with a formal heartiness,
thanked me for adding my services to the growing band that was
attempting to tell a long-deceived world the truth about Germany, and
dictated an _Ausweis_ which, in the name of the Foreign Office backed by
all the authority of the new national government, gave me permission to
go when and where I chose within the Empire, and forbade any one, large
or small, to put any difficulties whatever in my way. Like a sea monster
killed at the body, but with its tentacles still full of their poisoning
black fluid, Wilhelmstrasse seemed to have become innocuous at home long
before its antennæ, such as the dreadful Herr Maltzen at The Hague, had
lost their sting.
If it had been a great relief to see the eyes of passers-by fade
inattentively away at sight of me in my civilian garb, after two years
of being stared at in uniform, it was doubly pleasant to know that not
even the minions of the law could now question my most erratic wandering
to and fro within the Fatherland. With my blanket _Ausweis_ I was not
even required to report to the police upon my arrival in a new
community, the _Polizeiliche Anmeldung_ that is one of the banes of
German existence. I was, of course, still expected to fill out the
regulation blank at each hotel or lodging-house I occupied, but this was
a far less troublesome formality than the almost daily quest for, and
standing in line at, police stations would have been. These hotel forms
were virtually uniform throughout the Empire. They demanded the
following information of each prospective guest: Day of arrival; given
and family name; single, married, or widowed; profession; day, month,
year, town, county, and land of birth; legal residence, with street and
number; citizenship (in German the word is _Staatsangehörigkeit_, which
sounds much more like “Property of what government?”); place of last
stay, with full address; proposed length of present stay; whether or not
the registering guest had ever been in that particular city or locality
before; if so, when, why, and how long, and residence while there. But
under the new democracy hotelkeepers had grown somewhat more easy-going
than in years gone by, and their exactions in this respect never became
burdensome.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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